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Old 12-30-2003, 10:15 PM
Dan Rotigel
Posts: n/a
190-16v slave cylinder replacement

Hi all,

Just spent the last 2 hours under the car trying to replace my poor, leaky clutch slave cylinder.

The problem is I simply cannot reach the two bolts securing the cylinder to the housing! Has anybody actually done this on this car? What sort of tools/methods did you use?

I'm so frustrated i'm starting to stare at the engine mounts!

Dan Rotigel
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Old 12-31-2003, 12:45 AM
Senior Canadian Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 827
i tried to do the same. finally gave up and took the car into the dealership and had them do it. Good thing too; the replacement slave was leaky as was the master so i had the entire clutch system re-done.
'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
'70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights
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Old 12-31-2003, 04:19 PM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 376

I guess there is ONE good thing about my wife 16V auto.

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Old 12-31-2003, 06:28 PM
Dan Rotigel
Posts: n/a
After a good 4 hours of playing around with different ways to get at the acursed slave cylinder, my 16v is back together.

For those who come after me, here what finally worked.

1. Remove the exhaust pipes from the car, but you can leave the headers.

2. Unfasten the heat shield that goes between the headers and the firewall. This will flop around and annoy you constantly unless you tie it up with a clothes hanger.

3. Unfasten the hard line coming out of the master cylinder where it joins the soft line which connects to the hard line going around the top of the transmission.

4. Using all the manual dexterity you possess, unscrew the two bolts connecting the slave cylinder to the bell housing. A 'Rachet Wrench' helped considerably.

5. Take the slave cylinder, with the hard line still attached, out the top of the engine compartment. I think we ended up with the slave cylinder down between the headers before the line had enough clearance, but trust me, it works.

We had to cut a wrench in half to reach the bleed screw after we put the beast back together. The most important thing is to remember that it can be done.

For sheer frustration, not even the oil thermostat comes close to this one-its like trying to bite your own ear off.

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Old 01-03-2004, 09:26 AM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 41
I feel your pain, one of the most frustrating repairs ever, especially on one's back. good job !
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Old 01-03-2004, 10:00 AM
Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,316
Great wrench! And nice write-up.

Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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