I read quite a few posts on this distributor cap replacement on the forum, but I still have a few questions.

1. the parts shop sells two different items in relation to this replacement that I am not sure if I need, one is an o-ring style gasket called simply the distributor cap gasket, and another red-orange circular item called a suppressor cover. Do I need both of these (in addition to all the other obvious parts) when replacing the cap and rotor? where does the suppressor cover go?

2. I have got the impression that the rotor is attached to a metal piece that is then attached to the camshaft. Is it neccessary to replace both the rotor and the metal piece behind it?

3. I have a good set of craftsman allen wrenches with ball ends. Will this be adequate for the job or should I purchase an allen socket in the appropriate size?

4. Will I damage the wires if I remove them from the cap without a special tool? One post said something about this.

Any other things I should be advised about before beginning? I have replaced a cap once before, but it was a simple "plug and play" replacement, so to speak.

Also, I had a quick question about the vacuum line that starts in the air filter and loops back under it. Anybody know where it goes and what it does? Is it easy to replace? It broke (brittle as hell, like thin uncooked pasta!) when I was tooling around the other day and I have it "ghetto rigged" to work right now but want to replace the whole line. I cannot get the air filter housing off without ruining the fabulous rigging I did, thus I decided to consult the forum before removing anything.

Thanks in advance for all replies.

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headrivenoise... listen.

I had the same problem with brittle plastic. I broke the plastic line from the breather hose that goes under the air cleaner to the fuel pressure regulator, at least on my 300SE. I used a piece of hose fix it temporarily. I'll get a few feet of line and replace all those hoses.

On all my other FI cars, the FPR vacuum line goes to the intake manifold, or at least the throttle body area. I think it's rather odd that the vacuum point is at the air cleaner. Maybe mine is hooked up wrongly.

I don' know about the distributor cap, I haven't replaced mine yet.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Hi dirtysocks,

The suppressor cover goes begind the rotor button that is attached by three small allen head screws. Unless your's is cracked, you simply don't need a new one, nor the gasket o-ring if yours is in tact and not dryrot or broken.

Remove the cap with three allen head screws that hang in the cap (you won't loose them) and remove the wires one at a time if you are not sure, and if your wires are not numbered, but the cap cover (black plastic cover on the red cap) is numbered, and from the front of the engine, cylinders start as #1 and go to #6 in the rear to the engine.

#1 question reply: It's a simple job, but make sure you get a Bosch cap & rotor, and don't accept any other brand (like I had to do when I had my cap crack because of the camshaft breaking on me...long story...not my fault ). You will most likely find the best deal right here on FastLane. Aftermarket caps are just not the same as Bosch. One screw on the bottom of the cap, and one on each side.....3 total screws to remove and the cap is off. Be careful not to crack or break the cap & rotor and you can save them for spares in the trunk.

#2 question reply: replace the rotor....the "drive dog" (behind the rotor) as it is referred to in the English W124 book is fine if it's not broken. It's $20.00 at the dealer. The dealer calls it "that part"....at leastthey did when I showed them what I wanted, and did not have a specific name at the time for it.

#3 question reply: ball ends are not required, as they are used best in electrical work, but the non-ball ends are best. Just don't strip the allen heads with the ball end.....thats the lastthing you want to do.

#4 question reply: twist the wires and then pull one at a time off, or number each wire with masking tape for peace of mind if you are uneasy about changing the wires.

As far as your broken line is concerned, is it a small line, or a larger black line from the top of the air cleaner housing that connects to the valve cover? Either way, search for it on FastLane (here on this forum) and you will be able to purchase the correct replacement. The rigging is ok for temp. fix.

Hope this helps you, and glad your engine runs well. My fuel tank had rust sediment that clogged my fuel distributor, so it's down right now .

Take care.

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'87 300E | 2.6 engine
Artic White - Navy blue interior, chrome rims, very clean and sharp!
91 300E
89 300E


The rest of my collection are just cars and trucks...no more "automobiles"...

Thanks for the response 87-300E, very helpful. I looked at the broken line today, and I incorrectly stated before that it comes from the air filter housing. It is actually a vacuum line that branches off from the large black rubber(?) piece that goes from the side of the valve cover into the top of the air cleaner housing. the vacuum line in question "disappears" under the air filter housing.

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headrivenoise... listen.

That small piece of nylon tubing is the pressure reference line from the fuel pressure regulator. It routes from the FPR under the inlet manifold and to a nipple molded into the crankcase vent line from the valve cover to the air cleaner.

If the FPF leaks the fuel will be vented to the PCV system and consumed by the engine. The nylon tubing becomes brittle with time and breakage is common.

Duke

Hi dirtysocks,

What part of the Island are you near? I have friends up there that I'll be visiting this summer so while I'm up there, maybe you would like to get together and meet each other.

That line you mention is like Duke 2.6 said....

Just go to your hardware store (unless you really want to visit the dealer) and locate the same type of sturdy line and replace it, and while you are at it, look at other small tubing lines that also may be cracked. If you have any other questions, let me know, and I'll send you an email.

Take care.

__________________
'87 300E | 2.6 engine
Artic White - Navy blue interior, chrome rims, very clean and sharp!
91 300E
89 300E


The rest of my collection are just cars and trucks...no more "automobiles"...

I live in a small farm town known as manorville, about 25 minutes from the beginning of the dreaded hamptons. I would certainly not be against driving quite a bit west to meet, if neccessary. I play in a band and spend quite a bit of time out west playing shows anyway. Will you be traveling in the benz? I've never seen one in arctic white with blue interior (mine is grey), and I would like to. let me know when your coming up.

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headrivenoise... listen.

Well you wouldn't have to travel too far west, because my friends live in Middle Island, not too far from you at all. And yes, I'll be driving the Benz, with cold air blowing (in summer ).

A musician also huh? Same here, but I got tired of traveling, so I just play at parties and cook-outs now, for fun, and sit in with friends in their bands. I really look forward to the trip, because I plan on visiting Niagra Falls while I'm up there.

Looking forward to meeting you.

__________________
'87 300E | 2.6 engine
Artic White - Navy blue interior, chrome rims, very clean and sharp!
91 300E
89 300E


The rest of my collection are just cars and trucks...no more "automobiles"...