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#1
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'86 190E 16V question PLEASE HELP OIL pressure gauge reading 0 bar!!!
Hello everyone,
OK, it's pretty cold today and I go out to start my car.....I turn the key to the ON position and notice that on the dash warning lights the left side of the exterior temp. LCD that the lights didn't come on like usual....I hear the fuel pump do it's normal buzz....but nothing on the warning lights....sorry I don't remember which lights they are but also after I started my car.....I noticed that the oil pressure gauge stayed at 0 bar AND my battery voltage gauge was dead as well. Hmmmm......everything was normal....the RPM gauge was fine and revving normally.....and the motor was running nice and smooth....but being that the gauge is reading no oil pressure I turned the car off quickly. I checked the fuses and they are fine. If anyone can help me please do so....thank you very much....later. |
#2
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Reading should be 1-2 at idle and increase to 3 when rpm goes up. Either bad guage or oil sender unit. Try sender unit first. I believe if guage is good you should be able to ground out and if it reads 3 at the guage then the problem is sending unit. This was how I checked chevy's in the days of yore.
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#3
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Sometimes things fix themselves when it is warmer. Hmmmm.
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#4
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Are you sure that the fuse is Ok? Change it anyway just to make certain. Many times the fuse may "look" ok, but in fact it is not macking the correct contact or there could be a hirline crack that impedes the current flow.
Iggy
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Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. 2006 - Suzuki Gran Vitara (2.0 L fully equipped) Like this car so far except for trying to put on the seatbelt. 1988 - 190e - 2.3L - 172K miles (It now belongs to the exwife) 1999 - Chevy Blazer LS Fully Equiped - killed it June 2006 2001 - Honda Civic EX - 68K miles (sold June 2004) 1963 - 220S - Dual Carb 6 cyl. (sold) 1994 - Yamaha WaveRaider (fun to ride) |
#5
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Thanks everyone,
If anyone can help out further please please please help me.....Also, I might say that on the 16V model.....the oil pressure stays at 3 bar...even at idle....and when you turn the key to the ON position....the gauge jumps to 3 as well......maybe there is a pre-oiler or something....anyway. Let me know....thanks. |
#6
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My first thought is that you have an electrical problem made worse by extreme cold. The guages are all electric, so if they all read zero, I'd bet they have no power, due to a bad fuse or loose connection.
If the temp and fuel gauges also read zero, it's most likely the fuse. If the guage now pops up to 3 when you turn the ignition on, it's possible the sender wire is off and grounded on the block or head, too. Otherwise, it's a cluster problem. You need to get a mechanical gauge on it and verify that you DO have adequate oil pressure before you drive it! It's also possible that you have fairly heavy oil in it -- this will take longer to pump up to pressure than thin oil when it's very cold, but it should still read after only a few seconds. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#7
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Hi there,
Thanks for your helpful hints...Peter, I think you nailed it. I went out yesterday to try it again....I messed with the fuses and now my gauges are working again.....so I'm going to try to replace the #9 fuse (I think). Also...the only gauges that had problems were the voltage gauge and the oil pressure gauge. glad it's nothing serious....later. |
#8
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Clinton,
The 16v has no pre oiler, should not read 3 bar with only the key on, and when warmed up and idling does not read 3 bar. I believe you may have a sending unit problem. The way you describe your car you don't really know your oil pressure.
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Paul |
#9
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^
My gauge jumps to 3 with the key on and stays also at 3 when idling. I also have a 2.3-16vlv 1987. |
#10
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canada911,
This is an easy test, pull wire off of oil pressure sensor, turn ignition on and oil pressure guage should read 3 bar. Now connect the wire to ground and the guage should read 0 bar. If these two things happen you have a bad sending unit. Good luck.
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Paul |
#11
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your test is a good idea, but I heard from a valuable source this:
"The early years 190e has a gauge that indicates a normal pressure of about 2 (depending of alot of factor, like rpm), but relatively to some complain of owner that tought that it wasnt normal that the gauge wasnt at 3, Mercedes changed their gauge so they would indicate on normal condition a value of 3" I beleive it is right 'cause there is a couple of 190e that has gauge up to 3 in those years on the 190revolution forum. |
#12
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Urban legend.
The gauge reads pressure in bar. Normal is no pressure with the engine off, so the gauge must read 0 with the engine off. Pressure varies between 0.5 bar and 3 -- the gauge pegs at 3 -- with the engine running. Less than 0.5 is a cause for concern (worn bearings, bad oil pump). Cold engine should run 3 bar til it warms up. Pressure must be 3 bar at 1000 -1500 rpm on a warm engine. If the gauge reads 3 with the key on, engine off, either the sender is bad or the wire is loose. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#13
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I was out driving in my car and heard a funny noise over behind the glove box. Kind of a muffled buzz. Then it stopped and the oil pressure gauge was reading zip. If I raced the engine a bit it would go up to about 1.5. I have full synthetic in it and the level of oil is correct. When I loosen the oil cover at idle there is oil flying all around. The car is running at a cool 80 degrees and idles around 800? What went?
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