What's your choice:

I want opinions if i have made a mistake with my choice:

i had tried the driver's seat of a 94 C class (cost: $16K) and it feels like seating in a japanese car which i previously owned. although i have not drive it, i think its as bumpy as jap cars.

with my 1992 e320 4 drs (costing $16K), i have spent around $1800-2000 to repair its drivability problems, etc.

replaced the ff

alternator
distributor cap
ignition coil
plug wires
several spark plug changes
rewiring the engine harness
modify my fuel pump relay wiring to match it with the fuel relay for 4 zyl since i cant source the MAS relay
fuel filter
timing cover seal
valve cover gasket
idle control valve
fuel pressure regulator
tie rod assembly
front shock mounts

I'm partial to the E class b/c I have one. You don't state how many miles on it though. It is the prefered car for the M103 engine, the last year of it (if that is what you have, but you've listed the 3.2 litre engine here). What do you mean by drivability? Or do you mean reliability? The C class is a very reliable car but a little lacking in power.

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dtf
1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (228,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles

I am partial to the C class. Mine has been very reliable and I like the firm suspension that the sport package has on mine.

It depends what you are looking for. If you want a larger car with a softer ride, then get the E class.

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Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record

its an E 320 with a 104 engine (first gen), inline 6 zyl CIS E.

ever since i had it acquired last october, it is only today that i have been satisfied with its performance and the culprit is the fuel filter. there are times that i have fears of using it at one time
it can only run at top speed of 20kph with lots of black smoke and it happened twice that i almost have it pulled by a wrecker.

my greatest fears then was a problem with the ignition module or ECU which would probably cost me a lot of money.


if i plan to buy another MB circa 1994-1996,the lesson I have learned is to test drive it for at least 200 km before paying for the car + a good wiring harness


Thanks for your comments

I personally think the KE car to be more user friendly. Generally speaking I think the 124 body is the last of the good DIY cars.

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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

I am partial to the C class of 1994, a C180 as I own one. This is the Elegance model supposed to be having the softest suspension setup. At highway speeds or above 80kmh, the feel is fantastic, very smooth and no road noise or vibes. However at low speeds, the vibes get to u a lot esp. the small bumps and rail tracks. The body is superb, but does rattle a bit on rough roads. I would like to soften it further so the slow rides feel better, but how? We live in surburbs and do our daily travels mostly on not very good surfaces with tram and rail tracks. The fuel economy is very good and I am happy. The brakes are very sharp. The turning circle is so small and you will be surprised in the surburban streets and when city parking. The sound system is not the best, needs aftermarket systems to improve, but is hard work. If you want or need speed, go to the C280 or higher if any like C32. However, accomodation is a bit tight for tall people or if you have to carry bigger kids in this car. I find that the E class which I have driven before to be more luxurious feeling, much larger inside and in the boot and more smooth suspension anywhere, but hard to park due to its size.

Stevebfl......you have helped me immensely regarding my W140 and I respect your opinion greatly. So.....you wrote: [Generally speaking I think the 124 body is the last of the good DIY cars.]. I own the original year '86 124 and it needs about $1500 to get it to be perfect (exhaust and blower motor). It has 202,000 miles on it but runs like a champ and uses/loses no oil whatsoever. My question is....should I invest the money in an 18 year old car or am I throwing good money after bad?

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1996 SL320 97K miles
1996 C220 130k miles
1992 500SEL 170k miles <---sold
1986 300E 216k miles <---sold

Well, $1500 would be what, four car payments?

Many times I've toyed with the idea of trading our 300Es. Just can't make myself do it. SO much car for the money, these cars are...

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560