Eric:

Unless a rear brake is dragging enough to make stopping jerky, you will only notice it by reduced milage or loss of power, as both rear wheels will drag (through the differential).

It is VERY much more likely you have one sticking out that only one retracting properly! Usually the result of an old seal no longer flexing (the seal is a large square "0-ring" about 1/8" thick in a groove -- applying the brakes flexes the seal only, and the piston retracts from the resiliency (sp) of the rubber. As the pad wears, the piston slips a bit). The pad will drag more when it's not pulled back by the seal -- the runout in the rotor will push it back some, but it will wear the pad more. A bad dust boot allows dust and grit into the upper part of the bore, above the seal, and this will lock the piston in the applied position. You will get drag on that pad only until the rotor and pad heat up some, forcing the piston back. Once it cools off, it won't drag again until you apply the brakes.

Rebuild kits are about $20 each on fastlane, takes about an hour to do each caliper if nothing is really stuck.

If you don't want to mess about with the rebuilds, just send yours back as cores and pop the new or rebuilt ones on and be done with it -- it's a matter of what your personal time is worth.

Most shops are very reluctant to do even swap-the-seals brake rebuilds, too much liability, and many won't put rebuilt calipers on because they have too much trouble with them.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!