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I still think the alternator is slowly going south.
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#33
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I would take the positive lead off for the night. Perfect chance to see if the battery drops off overnight on it's own. Check the battery before making the connection then watch and listen closely while reconnecting. If there is a serious draw you will hear and see the spark upon making connection.
If you are feeling adventurous tomorrow you could always take a look at the back side of the alternator to see if you can access the two screw that retain the brush pack/voltage regulator. As long as you can access that it is pretty much a plug-n-play repair. FastLane has them for ~$15 on for the cheapo and ~$30 for the high dollar unit. Both are good.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
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Sounds more like the battery to me, but it sounds like a tough one, and without being able to do some tests of my own, it's all speculation.
I like the voltage reading you're getting. In relation to this and what John said he had going on, the voltage output should be 13.8 to 14.2v. What John had was 13.7. This is very important, 13.7 isn't correct and should have been caught early on and the regulator brushes inspected. It wouldn't hurt on Kimmys car to at least take a look at the brushes, but I'm fairly convinced there is a problem with the battery which may even be an intermittent open circuit in the battery, or some other manufacturing concern (not filled up with electrolyte?). But it's possible it may pass a battery test at times, not 100% sure, but I would still "best guess" it's the battery. Someone already pointed out if it were the alternator, that the car should eventually die, needs sufficient electrical power to run the ignition and fuel pump/s. Although possibly the regulator is putting out correct voltage, but a problem with the alternator itself, not putting out sufficient amps? Any electrical engineers out here, does that sound feasable? A proper charging system test should be done, but first I'd closely scrutinize the battery. There isn't anything I can think of that would deplete the battery (to the point you'd need a jumpstart) in 15 or so minutes, at least nothing you wouldn't notice. A trunklight bulb, clock, radio, etc doesn't deplete a battery in 15 minutes folks. Maybe the starter would (sure, 15 minutes of starter operation, yeah you can't do that for 15 minutes without killing the battery, maybe the headlights, which is generally considered the 2nd largest electrical consumer, but should still last 15 minutes on a good battery). Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
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DON'T disconnect the positive lead, use yer heads. Disconnect the NEGATIVE lead. I LIKE the idea of seeing what'll happen if you disconnect the battery, but disconnect the negative before you short out the wrench and fry your hand.
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
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My bad Gilly...I knew to type negative but for some stupid reason I typed positive.
Always disconnect the ground side. Ah there's my excuse...I was thinking of the MG..
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
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Some day I'll have that little Sprite done and I'm gonna melt a wrench, I just know I am........
Gilly
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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
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Again, thanks a million. |
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Do us one teeny favour? Ignore the "quote" button and just use "reply." You're just reposting over and over again.
With the battery dying overnight in disconnect, I would think it's the battery. |
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12.13v after sitting overnight? - you have a bad battery - if it were half decently healthy it would have been around 12.50 volts. I have 6 cars in the family to keep repairing and this test on batteries has never let me down in 7 years. If you still don't think it is the battery - try the test on a car that is working properly and compare readings. If you are still hesitant - borrow a battery from another car that is good and try the overnight voltage test and then try to start the car with the borrowed battery. I am willing to bet it will start right up. Load tests are great for final diagnoses - but is tied into the current draw of the battery - which the load test checks - however - there is a correlation with the voltage at the same time. So a battery that has a static voltage after 12 hours at rest of 12.56 or more - will most likely load test good. A battery that has a static voltage of 12.13 volts does not have enough reserve and will most likely load test bad. A real good battery will have a static voltage of 12.76 or higher. Here in Canada we have been using Crappy Tire batteries that usually last 2-3 years before going bad - but the low price and closeness of the stores keeps me going back. Every one of their batteries that I have static votage tested as bad - they told me that I was wrong and to prove their point - charged the defective battery and then left it to sit overnight - then load tested it - BAD. That is why I am so confident that the voltage test will work- experience.
Morris |
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I would think it's the battery as well. You probably could use a new one anyway after all that's happened. Get a battery with a 12 or 24 month replacement warranty.
You also have an oil leak and a trunk light issue. Want to sell the car? |
#45
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Kimm |
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