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  #31  
Old 04-07-2004, 10:18 PM
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Didn't see you already had it back together so apologies for the unnecessary information.

If the one you're working on is like some of the other 3.0Ls, look at the underside of the distributor cap to find the wiring connections to the plugs. On some models they don't go in firing order around the clock, but have bypass tunnel connections under each other and are somewhat random in order.

Hope this will help and good luck!
Frank
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  #32  
Old 04-07-2004, 11:43 PM
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Location: Toronto, Canada
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Hi Frank

Thanks so much for the info. I do have the engine back together, and the distributor cap does have numbers on it, I just can't get it to start.

I will look over the documents you provided links for, perhaps I can find something in it.

Thanks so much again.

xp
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1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project.
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  #33  
Old 04-08-2004, 02:58 PM
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It's alive!

Alright, I got the sucker to run.

Turns out the distributor marks were wrong. I probably marked it wrong when I was taking it apart.

Other then a lot of smoke, and one of the valves clapping really loud, which I will try to correct. The engine runs very well. I still ahve to adjust timing on it, and I'm guessing the smoke is from all the new gaskets because I do not see any leaks at all, and it comes from the exhaust mainfolds on both heads.

Aditionally, no more water pouring out of the exhaust pipe, not in the amounts it did before at least, no more nasty smell, heating works, although I don't need it anymore. And I accompished my first valve job, not bad

xp
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  #34  
Old 04-08-2004, 03:04 PM
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Good job! Now solve my ABS problem, please and thank you!!

Frank
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  #35  
Old 04-09-2004, 07:16 PM
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Fixed

Took care of the valve knock, turns out it was only oil and since I was flushing the engine, it fixed itself.

I took it for a drive and it does drive

But it looks liike it has a bad O2 or a dead CAT, or both, lots of exhust smoke coming out of the tail pipe, not like any of my other cars, I'm hoping it's just the O2 which should be dead from the burnt coolant.

The investigation continues.

As for ABS, unfortunately I don't know a thing about it, none of my cars have ABS in them. But I would start with electronics, the sensors, and then the computer, might be a lose solder joint.

xp
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  #36  
Old 04-09-2004, 07:32 PM
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XP:

some smoke is normal from machining oil burning off, but if you have copious blue smoke you have oil getting into the combustion chambers. While smoke (or blue smoke slowly trailing down to nothing) can be crud in the cat -- it will burn off when you get it up to temp, but it may have failed. If so, the O2 sensor is also fried.

If the smoke is black, look for a bad coolant temp sensor or a broken wire/unplugged sensor.

You can check the O2 sensor with a volt/ohm meter -- it should produce 0 volts very lean and about 1 V full rich -- if you have black smoke rolling out the back and 0 V on the O2 sensor, it's toast.

If you didn't have black smoke before, check for a dead temp senor or a disconnected or broken wire on the temp sensors first.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #37  
Old 04-15-2004, 06:49 PM
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smoke gone

Alright, the smoke is gone, but the exhaust funes still smell terrible, I have no idea why, but I'm sure it is not supposed to be that way.

I don't know if I can describe the smell, but if anyone knows what could be causing it, I'll be happy to check it out so this car can be used propperly.

TIA

xp
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  #38  
Old 04-15-2004, 07:26 PM
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If that engine was burning oil for a long time, chances are the cat is trashed. Are you smelling sulphur dioxide.... rotten eggs?

BTW, I think your engine may have VLAs (valve lash adjusters). If so and if it's tapping, there's a trick to calm them down:

From idle, slowly and steadily rev the engine to 3,000 rpm over a period of 15 seconds. Then let it idle for 15 seconds. Repeat the cycle up to 20 times. Usually they'll calm down after only a few cycles.

Frank
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  #39  
Old 04-15-2004, 08:52 PM
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cat

I think you're right Frank about the rotten eggs, but I would say that the cat is fried for sure since this engine was burning just about everything prior to the work I did on it.

The valve tick I fixed, it was simply oil related. I flushed the engine, put on a new filter and the tick was gone, it works real nice right now. Starts on the first turn, idles real smooth, I just have to take it for a road test to see if the transmission works at all in higher gears... I think there might be a problem with it, but that will be my next project.

I think I will stop by a local junk yard and get a used cat for this car, or engine I guess you could say, from a later model.

I hear that not everyone wants to sell these, so where would I look for a cheap cat?

xp
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  #40  
Old 04-15-2004, 09:24 PM
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You can try to get a "direct fit" unit from a junk yard, but get a guarantee that it will pass emissions or your money back.

Otherwise, the most bang for the buck is a "universal fit" unit from any of the discount parts houses or even from a muffler shop. Match the inlet/outlet pipe size and make certain the hanger arrangement will work. Some of them are welded in and some have slip fittings with clamps.... just know if you're going to do the work yourself that you might have to do some fabricating (check the fittings to see what will work). You can buy them from $40-200, depending on quality.

Type "universal catalytic converter" in your web browser and you'll be entertained for a while and get some ideas.

Frank
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  #41  
Old 04-16-2004, 08:33 AM
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xp190
Slight diversion to the current topic, has anyone mentioned about the retightening of the cylinder head bolts after a few hundred miles? I really do not think this is necessary but I am just gathering opinions.
thanks
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  #42  
Old 04-16-2004, 09:28 AM
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As I understand the 3.0L V6 Mitsu engine requirements, a Fel-Pro gasket does not require a re-torque, but otherwise it should be done. It's a real PITA, tho'. Below is what the manual states as procedure for reassembly of cylinder heads on a 1989 Dodge Raider V6 (3.0L Mitsu):

Frank

Quote:
Installation (SOHC)

1)Ensure mating surfaces are clean and dry. Note identification mark on front of head gasket. Identification marks are: "R" for SOHC, "2DN" for DOHC non-turbocharged, and "2DT" for DOHC turbocharged engine. Install head gasket with identification mark toward timing belt side of engine and facing upward. Ensure all holes are aligned.

NOTE: Install head gasket with identification mark toward timing belt side of engine and facing upward. Ensure all holes align. Install washers on head bolts with chamfered side toward bolt head.

2)Install cylinder head and bolts. Ensure washers are installed on head bolts with chamfered side toward bolt head. Using proper sequence, tighten bolts to specification in 2-3 steps. See Fig. 5. See appropriate TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of article.

3)Apply sealant to rocker cover sealing surfaces before installation. See Fig. 6. Ensure rocker cover gasket projections are aligned with notches in rocker cover. Coat all "O" rings with oil, and install a new "O" ring on distributor adapter and oil dipstick tube.

4)Coat camshaft area with oil prior to installing distributor adapter. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification. See appropriate TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table. After engine reaches normal operating temperature, allow engine to cool, and retighten cylinder head bolts.
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  #43  
Old 04-16-2004, 10:33 PM
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Depends on factory design -- stretch bolts usually don't need to be retorqued, but some manufactures require it.

Best to check a manual for that information.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #44  
Old 04-17-2004, 08:22 PM
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My manual did not mention anything about retightening, neither did the lil piece of paper that came with the head gaskets, just to make sure you use proper sequence and incrased torque specs.

I think I did an okay job overall, no leaks at all, but now my dad broke his acclaim, had to spend some time fixing it, but it's back on the road.

xp
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  #45  
Old 04-19-2004, 08:41 AM
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To all,
True...manual does not mention retightening either.
FrankR, I did not work with a manual on my old Honda Civic so maybe head bolts needed to be retightened if so mentioned in the specs.
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