![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Does engine oil flush additive destroy seals?
Copy of email sent today to Pennzoil:
"Sirs: I purchased a container of your engine flush at WalMart last night. At the checkout, a guy commented that he put the exact same stuff in his Ford Bronco, and it 'ate every seal on the engine', 'had oil coming out of everywhere', etc. Alarmed, I searched the internet for any information on your product, and came up empty-handed (Google, 'Pennzoil engine flush'). It would seem that this is a very risky product to use, and I'm going to return it tonight. I thought that you should know that there are many other products out there that are endorsed by the manufacturer as well as the public, and that you might consider beefing up support for this stuff if it really works as the container states. After all, if Pennzoil doesn't actively support this product, what does that say to me?" - I searched this forum for information on the effect of flush-additives on seals, and found very little. It seems that it is possible, but why? Is the corrosiveness that eats gum and varnish the culprit, also eating seals? Or does this happen only if you leave it in the engine too long, or have bad seals in the first place? Or could the extra volume increase oil pressure enough to push oil out through the seal? ![]()
__________________
1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
It makes sense to me. How does the product know to target the deposits and not the seals? Chemically, there's not a whole lot of difference between deposits and seals. If you soften one, you'll probably soften the other. Plus, some of the deposits can sometimes act as a seal. It's walking a thin line when you use mechanic-in-a-bottle products, and knowing how to use them without getting too aggressive with the product.
__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
want a cleaner engine ?
the safest way, according to
"Auto talk" is to put only 500 miles on your oil then change it. Do this a couple times. regular oil has enough cleaner to do the job-
__________________
Steve Danville what i did myself. CPS rear shocks MAS x 3. SparkPlugs (twice) Fuel pump & Filter Window switch replaced both failed horns with Honda horns. Cleaned ERG Tube Oil changes Oil consumption Fix Brake Pads A/C Recharge Anti-Freeze change X 2. Front Shocks. Monroe. $90 Mercedes Warrenty Work: Harmonic balancer,power steering clamp. Cat converters.Drive Shaft Bearing.s Replaced Outer Lower Tie Rods and front lower ball joints at 156,000 miles |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
You might also consider using a high end synthetic, as I understand they have additives which help clean the engine and keep it clean. Hope I didn't open up a can of worms with that suggestion.
![]()
__________________
Afshin Current: 02 C32 AMG Previous: 92 500E 84 190E 2.3 5 Spd |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
You opened it, now eat them !!!!! ![]() Fearfactor ?
__________________
2007 C 230 Sport. ![]() |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Reminds me of a shampoo commercial I saw some years back. Forget the name of the product.
Their claim was that certain ingredients only went to certain areas of the scalp. Huh??? Kinda like blowin' Hoover Dam and sayin' only certain homes down stream will get flooded.
__________________
Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
In the interests of being fair....
Pennzoil actually responded:
"Thank you for your e-mail inquiry. Pennzoil Concentrated Engine Flush will not have any adverse effect on engine seals and components. Our engine flush is oil based - not solvent or Kerosene base and is compatible with all engine oils. Feel free to contact our Technical Services Group at 800-458-4998 if you have any further requests or questions." Maybe the seals that leak after using this product were only sealing with a build-up of gunk that the flush dissolves?
__________________
1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|