Help Extracting Stripped Torx Bolt - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mark Herzig · #1 03-25-2004, 10:09 PM

I could sure use some help from you guys that do this for a living.

I have a '95 E300D and I'm removing the intake manifold. There are 4 of the 15 bolts that are stripped and I need to go to the next level figuring out how to extract them.

I just put the manifold on last weekend after replacing all the fuel lines and installing a new wiring harness. I over torqued the bolts... somewhere around 26 lbs. I did not use new bolts but used the ones that came off. So the bolts are not stuck with age... just MY ignorance....

Here is what I have done so far to get them out:

1) tried to use the torx socket attachment to extract.. bolts stripped.
2) tried the Craftsman 3 pc. Screw-Out™ Damaged Screw Remover Set... Absolutely no help...
3) tried the Craftsman Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set... Again no help. The #5 fit right over the torx bolt and would not grip. #4 too small and #6 too large.
4) Got, but not tried the Craftsman 7Power Extractor Drill-Out set... Thought I'd use with my 14.4 volt variable speed drill.

But before I execute #4, I REALLY would like to pick the brains of you talented mechanics who REALLY know how to do this stuff.

One of the bolts is the last on, closest to the firewall on the bottom... Any clues how to get to it... the drill will not maneuver that way...

ANY ideas will be greatly appreciated. I have an injector line with a pin prick hole in it that spews diesel... this is what I'm needing to replace.

1995whitec220 · #2 03-25-2004, 10:28 PM

try some left handed drill bits (snap on sells a set with easy outs too)and drill in the center (use a center punch) , if that doesn't spin the bolt out then use an easy out, be careful not to break off the easy out in the bolt or you will be screwed good luck

haasman · #3 03-26-2004, 01:00 AM

I don't repair cars for a living anymore, but I have used these tips-

A great suggestion passed along is to use valve lapping paste which is gritty and fills the voids. This works as long as the head is not too enlarged.

Depending on the size of the head, using a chisel to help start the bolt twisting can also help sometimes.

On the old '77 280SE I had to drill out an exhaust manifold stud ... I was very concerned as messing it up meant a new head. I used an E-Z-Out. I was told to get a high-quality drill bits, use a center punch to start as mentioned above. I nailed the broken stud in the center (whew!) and the E-Z-Out worked as claimed.

haasman

Ferdman · #4 03-26-2004, 09:08 AM

Mark, for the bottom bolt closest to the firewall you may need a 90 degree drill ... perhaps you can rent one. You might want to try an E-Z Out before going that route. Either way that one seems like a bear that requires patience and TLC.

#5 03-26-2004, 09:38 AM

has lost its inward points, this is what worked once for me: I hammered an Allen wrench socket which was just "light drive fit" into the bolt head and turned it out with that. Maybe I was just lucky, and maybe the driving helped by distorting the threads on one part or the other, but it did work.

Or are you talking about the kind of TORX bolts which have the TORX shape on the outside of the bolt head??

md21722 · #6 03-26-2004, 10:01 AM

Vice grips can be helpful. Maybe some PB Blaster penetrant. Sometimes you can get away with pounding in the next size larger bit.

Kestas · #7 03-26-2004, 10:36 AM

I ran into this on my intake manifold, the head was on my bench. No amount of chiseling, grinding slots for a screwdriver, nor impact screwdriving could loosen the bolt.

I ended up buying a dremel (finally) and grinding off the head like a dentist. Once the intake manifold was free, I could remove what was left of the bolt with my fingers. Overtorqueing really locks the bolt in the hole!

It was also the bolt closest to the firewall and would have been the hardest to get at had it been on the car.

mzsmbs · #8 03-26-2004, 10:55 AM

All the advice is very good and may work. I pretty much have used all of those tools/methods and they should work for you just fine. Be patient and it will come out eventually. I have also jammed a piece of metal into the hole and then drove the torx into it. It'll make that torx very tight. That worked very well last time.

Good luck

Mark Herzig · #9 03-26-2004, 10:56 AM

The Torx threads are internal.. The perimeter is round.

I tried vice grips but there is not enough clearance to attach vice grips to the bold. The manifold clearance on one side and the metal injector lines on the other prevent vice grips in this case....

great points so far... keep 'em comin'

manny · #10 03-26-2004, 11:03 AM

Have you tried needlenose visegrips ?

md21722 · #11 03-26-2004, 11:13 AM

I've seen some people chisel the head off, but a dremmel is probably a "cleaner" way.

Kestas · #12 03-26-2004, 01:09 PM

I'll vouch that the dremel did a very clean job. I hate to see parts under the hood that are all boogered up from a tough job. The dremel also kept me from breaking the plastic intake manifold.

Mark Herzig · #13 03-26-2004, 02:18 PM

At lunch I picked up a pair of Needle nose vice grips from Sears... We'll see how that does.. Thank You!

The dremel approach has promise. Once the head is gone the intake will pop right off... Never thought of that ! Thanks for that suggestion...

Mark Herzig · #14 03-26-2004, 02:22 PM

...oh... and get this.... apparantly there is a nation-wide shortage of intake manifold bolts for the 606... They are shipping from Germany! Instead of getting today, it will be a week from today... so I guess I don't have to rush the bolt extraction!

My injector lines came in today... I'm glad I spent the extra $30 to get the shipped overnight.... NOT

md21722 · #15 03-26-2004, 02:50 PM

Mark,

Its possible that NEW bolts will come as inverted TORX taking an "E" series socket rather than a driver. If I was in your position, and I only had one damaged bolt, I might put all the bolts back in except that one. Just because that's the damaged bolt doesn't mean the new bolt has to go there.

Brian