hello. i bought my first benz last week. it is a black 1996 E320.

i have a couple questions about this car, since it is my first Benz.

1. I want to replace all the fluids on the vehicle. can I buy off the shelf oil, antifreeze, etc... or do I have to use MB antifreeze, and any certain oil?

2. my headlights are hazed a little, is there a trick to buffing this out, or should it go and spend the $400++ for the new lights?

3. what should the temp guage read. on the interstate my temp guage sits just over the 80 mark, but when in traffic it goes up to the next hash mark. is this normal? when i change the fluid, should this go down a little?

thanks for any replies, and I should be surfing this site often for good information.

Aaron
SSgt, USAF
MacDill AFB

Temp sounds normal. Thermostat starts to open at 87C and is fully open at 102C. That hash mark above the 80C line is 100C. It is supposed to go up when you stop in traffic.

It has been a much debated topic on what fluids to use, but in my vehicle I use MB antifreeze. I use redline gear lube in the differential. There is an approved fluid list. As long as it is on the list, it can be used.

__________________
Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record

Aaron, you don't say how many miles on the car but I would have the transmission fluid and filter changed. Recommended interval is 30,000 miles for your transmission. The cost is trivial and the peace of mind substantial. My '94 wagon has the same engine and transmission. Welcome to the forum.

__________________
dtf
1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (228,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles

Just to chip in my few bits - I haven't been a benz owner that long either- but you'll find most info you'll need on this site.

For anti-freeze/coolant, it is generally considered best to use the Mercedes own coolant ($12 approx) from any dealer, or Zerex G-05, which is about the same price and found at pep boys etc. both are amber in colour. I believe these have a neutral PH, for long life of the plastic radiators, hoses etc.

Same with power steering fluid, Merc's own from dealer.

ATF & Oil are a regular hot topic, suffice to say some like synthetic, some like dino. Some people swear by Mobil 1, some say it does nothing...

On the subject of temp; mine sits at 80 for normal driving and then rises up to 90-100 when sitting in traffic. One nice thing about mercedes gauges is they actually tell you what's going on.

btw- a piece of advice after learning the hard way, is find a good knowledgeable mechnanic you can trust who specialises in these cars.

Anyway, good luck, and welcome to the fun (and sometimes frustrating!) world of Mercedes:-)

__________________
1993 320TE M104
---------------------------------------------------
past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
----------------------------------------------
"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys

thanks all for the replies. i think i will go to the Benz dealer tomorrow and pick up the proper fluids. it sounds like the MB stuff is the same price as the off the shelf brand, i mind as well go with the MB product.

so i am going to change the:
1. oil & filter
2. Antifreeze
3. ATF & filter
4. rear diff

is there anything else i should change not knowing how long it has been since it has been changed? i am a big advocate of regular fluid change, it is the life blood of a vehicle.

is there any tips or tricks i should be aware of, or is this straight forward. i have a mechanical background, but it is a lot with import cars (Honda, Toyota, Mitsubishi). i never owned a European car before, so i just want to be absolutely sure about things, before i start wrenching on this vehicle.

the car is 1996, with 149K. i have a mechanic that i will take the car to. the colonel i work for has a Benz, and there is a Benz shop off base that he takes his car to. i will have him introduce me to him this week, so i can build a report with him.

Aaron

Power steering fluid (and filter)
Brake Fluid
Dust filter,
Air Filter.

as far as a oil and filter go, can i just pick that up at a local auto store?

When you go to change the transmission fluid, know that Mercedes has made it so you can drain the torque converter in addition to the pan. You'll have to turn the engine until the torque coverter drain is visible at the bottom to do this. To refill, charge with 4 qts, start the car, then fill the balance of the charge.

Make sure the brake fluid is at least DOT 4. MB sells DOT 4+.

One important tip on changing the diff fluid -- REMOVE THE FILL PLUG FIRST, to make sure the job can be finished. The drain plug is relatively easier to remove, and conceivably you could find yourself in a situation where the fluid is drained out and you have no way to replace the fluid!

Though I'm not fanatic about synthetics, I personally recommend using synthetic diff fluid. It gives a significant increase in fuel economy compared with the small price penalty. Automakers are increasingly beginning to specify synthetic diff fluid for the factory fill in order to improve CAFE readings.

__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

so is there a plug or something to remove in the torque converter?

i am sorry, but what do you mean by charge?

also is there a place where i can get a shop manual for this vehicle, or an online manual?

cheers

The torque converter has a small flat plug with an aluminum washer that is removed with a 5(?)mm hex key.

By charge I mean "fill".

Check eBay for a manual. There are no online manuals.

My local auto supply store carries MB filters made by Fram (Part No. CH 6848), though I prefer to buy my supplies from FastLane, which is just a click away if you go to the top of this page. They not only support this forum, but they also give low competitive prices and the best service around. Talk to Phil, he'll get you what you need, especially if it's not in the online catalog.

__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

The oil filter is a cartridge type not a whole canister kind of thing. While you're getting all your stuff at a MB dealer pick up a couple of cartridges and the cap to take the housing off.

__________________
dtf
1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (228,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles

thanks for the info. one more question. if i drain the TC, where do i fill it at. sorry for the continued questions, but i am going to try and get a manual this week.

cheers

Not sure about 96, but my 95 has a transmission dipstick/fill tube at the firewall. This serves both the transmission and torque converter. That's why you have to refill in two steps, the relatively large amount of fluid needs to be distributed by running the engine in order to complete the fill.

__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

perfect. i hopefully will have all this changed out by the weekend. once again thanks.

Be aware that MBs have softer brake pad linings than most cars that I have owned and wear a good bit quicker. Maybe it's just a heavier car and a lead foot. In any event, the pads should have wires that are inserted into the brake pad material. Once the pads have worn down to that wire, it makes contact with the rotor and closes the circuit for the indicator lamp in the dash. It will start out by pulsing and then could go away for a while and reappear.