I replaced the front right wheel bearing this weekend, but the wheel still has a little bit of movement when trying to move at the 12 and 6 positions. Did I not tighten down enough? Should there be any play at all or absolutely none?


Thanks,

Josh

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1988 190e 2.3 with 91 engine

End play spec is .01-.02mm, which is .0004-.0008"

Tighten the nut and spin the wheel a few times to be sure the bearings are seated. Back off the nut until you can just barely perceive some play, then tighten the pinch bolt and recheck for play.

Duke

When you tap in the new bearing races, it is common for them to seat incompletely, even if you cleaned the hub properly. I have found it necessary to tighten the bearing preload to considerably more than the 12 ft-lb specified with a new bearing, before adjusting to spec.

Alternatively, drive a few miles, then recheck the adjustment.

Steve

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'91 MB 190E 2.3
'08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5
'83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7

There is no torque value for wheel bearings on 124 and 201 chassis that I'm aware of. If wheel bearings are set to 0.01-0.02 mm according to factory procedure, there will likely be some very small amount of play with the wheel & tire installed. That's the ways its been on the wheel bearings I've done on these cars. I've pulled the hubs 45-60Kmi later and the bearings look like new. If the bearing is too loose, but the factory procedure was followed it might suggest a problem with a worn spindle or some such. Better to err on a bearing slightly too loose than slightly too tight. The washer behind the lock nut should be stiff, but moveable with a screwdriver. The wheel probably shouldn't make a "ching-ching" noise when its rocked.

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Brian Toscano

Proper bearing clearance is absolutely critical to bearing life.

Steve is right. I believe to set the bearings the manual said to wrench down on the nut while turning the hub until the hub is nearly impossible to turn by hand. This should be considerably more than 12 ft-lbs. This takes up any slack from burrs or grit on the shoulder and squeezes any excess grease on the raceway and seats the parts in preparation for setting the clearance. The nut is then backed off and clearance is set using a dial gauge or the finger-tight method.

When I set the preload on my bearings to specification, I couldn't detect any play except with a dial gauge.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

See what Benzmac has to say below:

w123 Front bearing tightness adjustement

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Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"

Well,


Thank you all very much for your replies, I definately think based on what I see that i need to snug that bolt up little. I dont have a dial guage and was going by the Haynes manual. It said something like: you should be able to just move the thrust washer with minimal effort.

Kind of strange wording though "just move the thrust washer" - this makes me think it should be on the tighter side.

"with minimal effort" - makes you want to leave it a little loose.

I guess without the guage to get the true reading you just need to go in between, but I think I will go for no movement of the hub and when i spin the thrust washer I will make it a bit tighter than it is now.

Thanks again guys!!

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1988 190e 2.3 with 91 engine

Final adjustment - as someone else mentioned - should be as tight as you can make it turning the nut with your (gloved) fingers.

Steve

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'91 MB 190E 2.3
'08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5
'83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7