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  #1  
Old 03-31-2004, 09:42 PM
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Test gauge for hydraulic compensating elements

Is there an alternate method for testing and finding the correct thrust pieces for correcting the hydraulic compensating elements?

I looked up the tool and find it hard to spend the $80.00 and not use the tool for another 100,000 miles. I would check my valve clearance often in my other motors, but they were much easier to correct.

Any DIY’er checks?

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Old 04-01-2004, 09:33 AM
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There is a way to check it without utilizing the special purpose tool but at the moment I am unable to recall the wrench, size, and mfr that I used to check the lash. I am removing a pair of cylinder heads tomorrow night to perform a valve job, I will follow up Saturday morning with more info.
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Old 04-01-2004, 04:23 PM
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thank you so much..

I have a little rough idle and I can hear the rockers tapping so I know I need to adjust them with thrust shims. I just don't know what size to order.
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Old 04-04-2004, 06:46 AM
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I’ve been working to solve a miss and rough idle. I changed all rubber from the top of the throttle body up. Balanced the fuel flow while installing new injectors. She now runs 85% better. She is almost there, except, I still feel a little rough idle. Above 2k rpm it feels smooth and strong.

I’m using w9dc spark plugs, wires recent and ohm out good, same with the rotor, cap, and repaired the vacuum advance. So, I scoped it today and looking for your opinions.

The red is my #2 cylinder spark line and the black is target or ideal spark line. I can adjust from lean to rich and the waveform stays pretty much the same. I t will smooth out for very short burst, maybe 20 seconds then returns.

Now, all the other cylinder spark lines show a consistent downward arch that follows the lower red part above. Kind of like it gets rich then burns hard to lean.

I need to adjust the tapping of the rocker arms and I’m just wondering if you guys think it might cure the symptom above (my red spark line).

I’m hoping the red line is lifter thrust piece related.
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  #5  
Old 04-05-2004, 12:28 AM
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Cool

Is your engine burning oil? If so, how much do you add and at what mileage? I have some ideas that will smooth out the idle but it starts with the above questions.



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  #6  
Old 04-05-2004, 05:48 AM
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Not burning oil. 110K miles. I parked it yesterday and pulled out the motorbike to ride until I figure out what I'll be doing.

I notice small pops in exhaust presure. Intake vac is smooth.

I checked all cylinders compression yesterday and all but this cylinder were 170 to 180 psi. This one was 35 psi.

I have not leak tested yet, however I feel an exhaust valve is the bad animal. I was hoping the waveform was showing valve bounce.

I looked into the cylinder and the portion of the valve I could see looked very good.

Thanks for you input. I really don't want to pull the head.
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2004, 06:41 AM
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More info collected.

I noticed oil from the contour hoses, both, the one going to the breather and the one going to the air distributor, as if it had a bad PCV valve.

I changed the oil 30 days ago and have about 750 miles on it since. The oil is very clean.

The engine will sometimes run very smooth and on the scope the waveform will clear up during that time, very short about 10 sec., then back to rough.

I can adjust the fuel/air to 22” at idle, but it is very rich. I have it now at 16” at idle and under load (drive with parking brake) it will drop to 15” and hold steady (no bounce).

I pulled all the plugs and the good seven cylinders looked great, light brown. The bad #2 cylinder looked mildly oil soaked. This may be fuel soaked?

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