After installing the rebuilt 102 engine in my 88 190e the car won't run for more than 5 seconds...Turn the key off...wait another minute...runs great for 5 seconds.. OK.

This is strange. The engine was getting fuel before the rebuild (it was rebuilt due to a burned piston of #4 cyl...whole other story)..and all I did was take the intake manifold off the head before I took the head to the machine shop. The intake manifold, complete with the fuel distributor was stored in the shop. I DID remove all the injectors and replace the seals ..and the lines were removed from the fuel distributor for that time. Is it possible that dust or dirt entered the outlets of the fuel distributor and now it won't "distribute"?

Also, when I cracked all the nuts on the top of the FD, pressed the plate down all the way and had a helper crank the engine, there was a flow (slight) of fuel out all four holes...not a pressurised stream that would shoot into the air...more like a dribble..significant?

I know I'm getting fuel pressure because with the engine cold, left overnight, I pushed the sensor plate and it was quite a lot easier to move than when the system was pressureized by turning the key ON and waiting for the fuel pump to run for a second or two.

Silly Question #1: Does this system have to be "bled" like brake lines when run dry after uninstalling and installing?

Silly Question #2: Why does the engine start and run fine when I remove this plug (bolt) on the FD body (see picture)

Silly Question #3: What does the "Electro Hydraulic Actuator actually do, and can a faulty/badly installed one cause the symptoms I am experiancing?




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sonny: The "electro hydraulic acuator" regulates the fuel pressure going to the injectors under various engine conditions..........which is controlled by the ECU. This tells me that you have a KE-Jetronic CIS system, thus you do not have a warm up regulator. The KE system includes more sensors, a separate pressure regulato, AND and ECU.........all this really complicates things.

Please explain more regards to your question #2. Are you saying you can run the engine as long as you want by just removing this "plug"?

Yes, the engine runs fine (albeit idling at 2000 rpm) when this plug (bolt) is removed...it spills fuel like crazy from the hole where the plug used to be, but the engine runs...for what it's worth

Something else I can tell you is that the only component from the Fuel distributor amd intake maifold that I actually removed WAS this electro hydraulic actuator...I'm wondering if I didn't mess it up or install it improperly when I put it back on?

So you removed it.........why? This actuator directly controls the pressure going to the fuel injectors. I am more familiar with the K system, than the KE.........I will tackle this in the near future.

Since your car ran fine before, and now not.........after you removed this item.........I would guess it is not installed poperly. I have a car with KE-Jetronic, and the actuator screws are sealed in some epoxy........so I don't take it off. I would remove it, and re-install it, to see if that helps...........look very closely, to see if some part of the FD goes over, or under, a part in the actuator. Or, maybe you left a part out???????????

I don't know why the car runs with the plug out..........maybe it is bypassing the actuator, thus giving full system fuel pressure to the injectors.

Actually I have no idea why I took this part off....I guess it was one of those "hmmmm...I wonder what THIS thing does?" moments...but I'm pretty sure I didn't mess it up...just a couple of"O"rings that fell out and I put back on properly (so I thought) At any rate this is what I will look at first thing in the morning, knowing what I now know about this unit.
and Thanks very much for your patience and knowledge..

sonny: Don't feel bad about removing parts...........I do it all the time, and more often than not, I wish I didn't ........but, I do anyway.!!!!!!!!! My curiousity is just too great, to learn how things work. It seems that your's is similar.

Could this whole issue be caused by just a dirty / clogged /old fuel filter that didn't balk until the car was stored for 3 months?

The WORST thing in a CIS system is "DIRT". Too often the fuel filter is neglected. If it doesn't look brand new, then replace it.

If it solves your problem then great. If not, then it was still a good idea.

If the problem persists, then the next step would be to perform a fuel volume delivery test. This can be done in the garage, however, it must be done with fuel pumps running, but NOT the engine. That is why I asked about the 2-wire connector before, in the other thread.

One more thing. When you install a new fuel filter, first pour some gas into it before installing. The gas will prevent an abrupt high pressure of fuel from tearing some of the paper elements in the fuel filter, when the FP is activated.

You may want to bleed the injector lines AT the fuel distributor.

Need to be very careful doing this while the engine is running. I did this on the old 190e and remarkably a whole bunch of crud and junk came out, then the car ran much better.

See the green circles in the picture.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Well we don't need to go any further now. I found the problem. I had the plug for the EHA plugged into the Aux Air valve and vuice versa. Putting these connections on the proper components helped a LOT! But why would MB put the same exact size style of connector on two very close components like that? I'm just glad I didn't do any damage to the "brain" ( I don't think I did, but now the Engine will not start when it's warm)...one thing after another...but that's a new thread...