Since it''ll be getting warm here in the northeast soon, I decided to start planning my A/C refurb. I have a 1982 300CD, and the A/C system is in an unknown state. It hasn't blown cold air since I bought it about a year ago. I'd like to go through the system, and was looking for input on what to replace, look at, etc. I'm probably going to check the system for pressure, and if it is empty (as I suspect), I'll put a seal kit in the compressor, check the clutch, install a new Receiver-Drier, and then pressure test the system. Anything else anyone would recommend?

On a similar note, can anyone recommend a good source for A/C service equipment? I have 4 or 5 cars that are going to need at the very least evacuation and recharging with R-134 and I figured I'd rather invest the money in the equipment than having a shop do it. JCWhiteney careys a CTD "Handy Dandy" A/C flush kit for $48.99 that looks OK. Is there a better kit out there? They also have an Interdynamics R-134 manifold gauge set for $99 that looks pretty good. Any recommendations? Anything I might want that I haven't listed?

Thanks,

J.B.

I think you are wise to get your own tools and become an A/C "guru" with that many cars to do. Here's a source for knowledge and good suppliers. I recommmend either AC Source or AC Kits as a source of all you'll need. Phone calls to either will yield friendly help in equipping you.

http://www.aircondition.com/

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

Not sure what is in the "flush kit", but you don't really need anything fancy. A squeeze bottle (like one a chef would use to apply the raspberry drizzle to your chocolate torte...) and a blow gun for your air compressor are all that is really needed. Mineral spirits or lacquer thinner make reasonable flushes - $3-$7/gallon at your local big box hardware store. A flush gun which can be filled and then pressurized is convenient, but not absolutely necessary.

Interdynamics is a low-end brand of guages, I have not had the best experiences with their products. For similar money you should be able to get a set of Mastercool or Robinair guages - much better qaulity and performance. Check the websites at http://www.acsource.com or http://www.ackits.com.

I would recommend leak checking the system in your CD before assuming the compressor needs seals. At its age just about any component could be bad - leaky hoses, stone in the condenser, etc.

- JimY

Thanks for the info. I figured it was time to learn something about DIY A/C, since it's one of the few automotive systems I haven't messed around with. It just wasn't a priority in the past, but now that I'm commuting 3 hours a day, I'd like to be able to close the windows on the highway to cut down on noise related stress. Is there a good publication that I can read to give me the basics on function and servicing auto A/C?

Thanks,

J.B.

Getting knowledge and equipment is a good thing to do. The supplieres listed above both have the MasterCool auto a/c book available for about $20. I would recommend it.

As far as the car you mentioned, don't jump too far ahead. Before dismantling anything, determine the condition of the system. It could very well be that it is simply low on refrigerant. If so there is probably a leak, but necessarily so. It is not uncommon for a system in good order to leak an ounce or so a year. If this were the case, you would only need to recharge and maybe add just a little oil.

It is even more possible that there is a marginal leak. If everything seems okay, just charge it with some UV dye, so that you can find the leak if there is one. You will need dye and a black light to find the dye.

Get the book and keep posting questions here. If you're serious about learning, there are enough of us here with a/c experience that you will be an old hand in no time.

Good luck,

Alright... I think I will pick up a copy of the book and a good set of gauges. Now, if I need to charge the system, I will most likely end up converting it to R-134a anyways, so I'm wondering if I should get a gauge set for R-134a fittings to start with. Would this make the most sense? Or get something like the MasterCool R12/R134a dual gauge setup?

Thanks again.

J.B.

Now you're getting into an area where there are different ideas and opinions. I personally will not contaminate a 12 system with 134 traces or vice versa. There are others who are now saying that there is no problem from that.

A 134 set up is more expensive than an R12 setup and there are plenty of R12 setups available cheap at garage sales, ebay, etc. I would recommend getting a decent 134 set and find a 12 set on the cheap somewhere and never the two shall meet.

I also would recommend your staying with 12 on a system that is originally 12. I have even reverse converted back to 12. You can take an online, open book test for $15 and a few hours spent. Then you can buy 12 on ebay for about $15 per pound. You could buy a 30 pound cannister for $300 or $400 and have enough R12 for years.

Good luck,

Hmmm... I just assumed getting certified would be more involved, so I figured I'd just go with 134. Got a link to the exam site?

Thanks,

J.B.

Update - Nevermind, I found it.

Go to www.aircondition.com and poke around. There is a link there to the least expensive examiner that I found. They have a .pdf that you can download, and printout. If you peruse it then have it close it hand when you take the test you shouldn't have any trouble. As I recall that one costs $15.

Good luck,

I *think* it's http://www.epatest.com ...

Getting certified is stupid easy, highly recommended.

- JimY

Getting certified is not involved. And I agree with Larry, don't convert your system to r-134a. R-12 is more efficient in your car, since they were desinged for it. Almost everyone is dissatisfied when they convert, so save yourself the headache. A/C work is one of those areas that you definitely want to fix right the first time around. The only way I would suggest converting is if you are installing all new components and converting to a parallel flow condensor - THEN you get some good results. That's what I did in the diesel, and have been very satisfied.

GregS
'84 300D, 183k
'90 300CE, 173k

The only thing I would add to the post would probably start a whole other thread.

UV dye vs. an electronic leak detector.

You can't really diagnose a bad evaporator without dye, but its so much easier to use a detector for the other components.

Get the knowledge first, pressure check 2nd, find any leaks 3rd.

Then we can start a meanful dialog.

(with 4 or 5 cars to do, I'd get the equipment too) Heck start your own side business to help out the neighbhors and create a tax write off!!

__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

It is epatest.com, and it looks like it is now $19.95. Still a good value. I'll be taking this afternoon after I finish reading the online material.

Thanks again!

J.B.

I already have enough businesses to keep me busy, but I can assure you that the equipment will be a write off.

Is this a good product?

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=141

I'm thinking I'll probably get that one or this one:

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=402

Comments?

Thanks,

J.B.