Hi guys,

Over the past month I have installed rear shocks, front struts (incl. boots, bump stops, mounts) drag link, both tie rod assemblies and (3 of 4) new brake lines on my 171K mi. 1990 300E. I used info from Stu Ritter's Mercedes Bible, Haynes UK manual, MB CDs, and this forum. Finished up yesterday and car got aligned at local MB dealer today. Drives superbly now. During this exercise, I learned a bit, including some things I have not seen/heard before that might be worth sharing.

Here goes:

1. When replacing rear shocks, you must remove trunk panels. This is a perfect time to clean out your wheel well drains. Mine had the accumulation of 14 years of pine straw/gravel/paper clips.
I thought I did a good job cleaning these from under car with ice pick and vacuum cleaner, but not even close. The great thing about cleaning when replacing shocks is that it is a hassle to remove/re-intall those panels.

2. On rear shocks, none of the instructions I read talked about removing sway bar link, but this did make removal and install of shock go easier (with, of course, lower suspension arm supported from underneath). I also replaced the one-time nuts I removed from the sway bar link, as I am very cautious re. suspension. I had already installed sway bar bushings and connecting links, and that was too bad, as this would have been the better time to do them.

3. Pep Boys rents a GREAT front end tool kit. $106 US, refundable when tools returned. Perfect (small) tie rod end puller for use on 124s. Really high quality tools, better than the Auto Zone tools I also use. You will love this set.

4. Tie rod studs are hollowed at top for hex sockets/allen wrench. Never read this anywhere and learned only after becoming exasperated with inner tie rod re-install. Once you know this bit of engineering genius, tie rod work becomes too easy. This may be a feature of all tie rods and I simply did not know this as this was my first trial by fire, but I never read this anywhere in any instructions. Had I done my front struts first - where reference is made in the instructions - I might have guessed tie rod ends used same principle. Anyway, this was a great revelation.

5. Replaced 3 of 4 brake lines with new (stock rubber) lines, did yearly fluid replacement (used Valvoline DOT 4 synthetic), and difference is very noticeable. Brakes felt good previously; they feel great now. BTW, left rear upper fitting would not budge despite liquid wrench, vise grip use, light tapping with hammer. I scarred the nut a bit, but decided to stop - and live with old line - until I could figure a way to remove it without trashing fittings/line completely. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

If I think of any more, I will add.

Thanks to fellow forum members for the great info available here. Would have never been able to accomplish this without the knowledge I have gained here.