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  #1  
Old 05-23-2004, 12:54 AM
JimmyL's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
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Level Control troubleshooting...'80 300TD

I'm so defeated by this car so far! I just had to replace a 1/2 shaft and hub bearing and the A/C quit. I just can't catch a break, but at least it starts with 1/2 a turn of the key every time and doesn't smoke. Anyway, all whining aside....
I have got to get this level control working ('80 300TD). The back is sagging and bouncing. I guess first of all I need to verify that the pump is working. Do I just loosen a line somewhere to see if the fluid pumps out? (more than an ooze I would guess). One of the accumulaters is oil-soaked looking, and that is my main culprit at this time. How do I tell if it is bad?
I know an answer to this will take some typing effort, and up front I'm appreciative for said effort. I'm just trying to make this a daily driver work car, and I'm finding that my 'good deal' is costing me a good deal more.
Thanks,
Jimmy
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  #2  
Old 05-23-2004, 08:06 AM
mb123mercedes
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Jimmy.

Well you could have bought a new car.
Say a little compact for $12000 then
maintain it properly so it'll last 500K+
miles. .

Seriously,I'm sure that you'll never spend
that kind money.
I don't know how well the car was maintained
before bought it but if it wasn't then you
might need to invest some $$$$ to bring it
back up to par.


Does the reservoir have fluid in it?
If yes the most likely the pump is ok.
If it is dry then more than likely it is toast.
Also there is a filter in the reservoir that
needs replacing once a year.

Check the struts for leaks,if they don't
leak then they are ok.
If they leak they need replacing($351.50 ea. ouch!!!!).

The bouncing is usually an indication that the
accumulators are bad.
Change the accumulators for sure,they
are $107 and some change each on fastlane.


Louis.

Last edited by mb123mercedes; 05-23-2004 at 08:21 AM.
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  #3  
Old 05-23-2004, 01:40 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
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"One of the accumulaters is oil-soaked looking, and that is my main culprit at this time. How do I tell if it is bad? "



They are bad, they are always bad and if they aren't bad, replace them anyway at 100k, because they are bad.

They are a lot like a tire. If you fill that tire today with 32 psi and then just forget it for 100,000 miles chances are real good they will not be running at 32psi 100k later. Think about driving your car on that tire if it were only half full at 16psi, the degradation of capabilities is very similar with a half full accumulator.

You have chosen a tractor like device to drive, endlessly renewable. The totally useful piece of equipment. Your basic transportation unit, probably as economical as can be. You just haven't finished buying it yet.
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Continental Imports
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Old 05-24-2004, 12:54 AM
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Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
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Well put yall...

The resevoir has fluid, not leaking from shocks (thank goodness), so it sounds like I need a couple of accumulaters.(found them for $96 apiece). I can't see any logical reason not to get 2, and at least try to shore up the areas I am forced to repair. What is the best type/brand of fluid to go back with, and is there a bleeding process after everying is put back together?
Thank yall for the above replies. I'm looking very forward to getting this car to daily driver status, and I'm also very fond of tractors, so the tractor comparison makes me feel better about my purchase. I have a '68 Ford diesel tractor, and they both sound similiar, although I think the tractor could take the wagon off the line!
Got the A/C working today. Connector had come loose at the compressor! My first break....
Jimmy
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  #5  
Old 05-24-2004, 07:38 AM
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Always replace the accumulators in pairs. Think of them as a spring capability canteen and you are driving in the desert. The bigger your canteen the more secure you are of not running out of spring capability. Things get hard when you run out of spring capability.
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Old 05-24-2004, 01:30 PM
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Will I need to bleed any air out of the system, and if so, how is that accomplished? Also, I'm assuming that the position adjustment is made via a rod on the valve assy. near the accumulaters. Any pointers on making that adjustment, or anything I need to know?
Thanks once again.
Jimmy
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Old 05-24-2004, 02:42 PM
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Just be sure there is no pressure, by opening the bleeder on the valve. The thing will bleed itself if the pump picks up.
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33 years MB technician
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  #8  
Old 05-25-2004, 12:00 AM
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Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,673
It is working!!

What a difference!!! I replaced both of the accumulaters and it drives like a different car. It used to bounce 4 or 5 times for every bump, and now it is rock solid as I guess it ought to be. I still haven't succeded in the correct height adjustment. I see a threaded shaft with a couple of locking 10mm, and I guess that is the linkage that needs adjusting, but it was almost dark when I finished and testdrove, so I will try that tomorrow. I guess I am very close to actually using this wagon on a daily basis. I'm very ready...
Bleeding wasn't a problem. I found the bleeder screw and loosened it with the car running, and it shot fluid all over my neck, so the pump appears to be working with vigor. Thanks so much for yalls suggestions.
Jimmy
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