I am looking for 4 jack stands.... I looked online and had a hard time finding them. I found one.. but the price was like $100 PER jack stand.

I want a jack stand that can safely hold my w126, have a flat top( I don't like those Y-shaped tops)... and NOT A RATCHETING jack stand. I don't trust those ratcheting stands for some reason... I was at a store... lifted the lever slightly and the thing fell.

Any recommendations? Ebay seems to carry the cheap-o stuff.

Like you, I searched for awhile since I was not satisfied with the quality of the ones at AutoZone. These are not the racheting type which can fall unexpectedly. The top is pretty flat and fits well under the rubber Mercedes frame bump. The base is quite broad, which is safer but can make it a little challenging to raise the car with the trunk jack and fit the jack stand at the right place - but it is possible, you just have to fool with it a bit. They go for $50 per stand. You can check them out here:
[URL=http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10147]

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Chip Johnson

just curious- who made the $100 per jack stands?

http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html

I love these jack stands.. but I wouldn't pay that much for them. If anyone knows of anything similar to the ones above.. let me know.

$50 is not bad for the 6600 lb. ones. I could make something similar, but with the hours I'd have into it, I'd be better off buying theirs.

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J.B. Hebert

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Current Vehicles:
'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe (For Sale)
'94 Ford Explorer
'95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+

These look good. Might make my tool budget someday:

http://www.asedeals.com/jack_stands.html

See the flat top stands with rubber pad near the bottom of the page.

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

How about these?

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Oupa
1988 300e

That pic of the guy with the truck just cracked me up! I'm still trying not to laugh. Seriously though, a safe version of that would be a handy thing. I have often thought how it could be quite comfortable sitting down working on the underside of the car tilted up at an angle like that rather than lying in the confined space underneath (would be great for concours preparation). To get underneath mine I use some inexpensive stands (probably of Taiwanese or Chinese origin) that are available here from most auto parts suppliers (around 40 Aussie dollars a pair which should be under US$30). They are fairly light weight yet rated to more than enough for my MBs. They consist of square telescopic tubes for height adjustment with a pin that is inserted to lock the tubes together (no risk of collapse as with a rachet mechanism). They are light because the base does not need to be heavy gauge since it is only to provide stability rather than carrying the entire load. The square tube which is in compression carries the load and continues through the base and makes contact with the ground. The only requirement with this arrangement is that they be used on a hard, level surface. To play it safe I always use several support systems (eg. stands backed up by a jack) in case of any doubts with inexpensive stands.

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107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.

The ratcheting jack stands are completely safe. You can only pull up on the handle if there is no weight on the stand.

I've used a set of these for about 15 years and I trust them as much as I can trust ANY jack stand. Before that I used some that are made of thin wall pipe with a pin. They are no stronger, but they are much less convenient than the ratcheting type.

Hopefully after this weekend I will never need them again. I almost have my two post lift put together and operational.

Good luck,

No matter what type I am using I also back up them up with a fail safe system...I use inflated tires on rims....double stack them and you will be safe....use at least 2 sets and you can use this system without jack stands, you car will be about 14-16 inches off the ground and much cheaper and safer than jack stands. I sometimes use them depending on where I am at with and without jack stands. I have a couple sets from SEARS that I got with a sale on a hydraulic JACK and sometimes WALMART has jack stands and all are safe using the tires as a back up....Jim

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James A. Harris

Gee, you guys are really safe.
I drive my 123 up on ramps to change the oil, and then jack up the rear and use some old jackstands I got for $5 (with the pin) and $10 (the ratcheting kind) in yardsales. I then have some 8X8X12 blocks of hardwood (oak, O think) to put under the rear as a backup. I do all this on cement. I agree that a jack can be unsafe when sitting on asphalt, as it will tend to sink into the goo, especially in the summer

My neighbor spent a couple of weeks out of work for trying to remove and replace a muffler with the car on a bumper jack. I think THAT would be dumb.

The ratcheting jack will not slip down while it has a load on it. You would need to clobber it with a sledge to get it to slip.

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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)

I always buy the biggest JackStands I can and I back them up as much as possible. Sometiems I will use 4 total in the Car front.

You have to be careful because I am not sure import Steel is as safe as US Steel. My Heinz Werner Jack has lasted 30 years with one rebuild of the seals, but I dont think many of the newer jacks you buy can do that.

Last year a man in my area was killed in his garage underneath incorrect Jackstands.

I really wish i could specify and recommend a Brand, but I cant since many more Stands are made off shore out of imported steel of unspecified quality. The only rule I can mention is use four in the front if you are doing a transmission or something Major. Loads can shift!

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/snow7ice/BENZ.html

Any new recommendations?

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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

I scolded a guy for posting pics of him chaning brake pads with only the hydraulic jack supporting the car.

The thread was edited by the moderator, i.e. my text was removed. I figured the young man was embarassed or didn't want to be told anything.

I have four stout jack stands. SO far so good.

Sears has some good ones.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

The sears ones look just like the ones made in china, so they are probably from the same factory with a sears logo.

I want something more than 50 dollars per jack.

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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.