Ok I did multiple searches etc but didnt find any info.

I replaced the radiator on my 400E along with the fan clutch (after the fan clutch destroyed the old rad).

On removing the old radiator I poped the right bottom plastic fitting off since it was interfering with the fan clutch - couldnt get the rad out, the black plastic piece colided with the front of the fan clutch. I assumed it was because the front of the fan clutch was all torn up.

When installing the new one. Bolted up the fan clutch then went to install the radiator. Same problem in reverse. Ther is about 1/4 inch interference of the lower plastic mount with the fan clutch housing!

I was able to install it by removing the drain plug (this buys a couple mm) and unbolting the AC condenser. This allowed the radiator to come in at an angle with only some rubbing of the ac fins.

So is there a secret to RR a 400E/E420 500E/E500 radiator? It looks to me like if you make a special 8mm hex tool on a steel arm you may be able to install the fan clutch after installing the radiator? There is not enough room for a standard ratchet between the fan clutch and rad (even with the mercedes 3/8 drimve 8mm hex which I bought). If not, if I ever need to remove it again I'll pop off the plastic fitting again and then bend the aluminum back after install to hold it snug.

On the plus side its reassembled and running, now to get at at least one of the block drain fittings and put the correct coolant in - I refilled with only water to check things out.

Thanks
Paul

When I removed and replaced my radiator there was a plastic piece sticking out of the bottom facing the engine that looked like a bolt could've went through it. It was giving me trouble so I just sawed it off and that gave it enough room to clear the fan clutch.

It sounds like it might be the same thing but can't tell you for sure.

__________________
1992 Mercedes-Benz 400E
2002 Mercedes-Benz ML500

Paul,

If it's like my 86 300E, the secret is to have two little essential tools: the fan belt service wrench and the fan clutch lock tool. Both of these are available from Performance Products (and possible from FastLane but you'd have to call Phil and ask).
The part numbers and prices from Performance Products are as follows:

Fan Belt Service Wrench - #58-019 ........$7.45
(this is a one-piece stubby 8mm hex wrench with a 3/8" drive)

Fan Clutch Lock Tool - #58-021 .............$16.00
[this is a sturdy piece of bent rod that is designed to jam the fan clutch so the nut can be tightened or loosened. I found a picture from ZDMAK Tools that I've attached below. If I get a chance I'll take a photo of my fan belt service wrench (8mm stubby hex) and post it later]

You can reach Performance Products at 1-800-243-1220 or at www.performanceproducts on the web. Do a search on those two part numbers.

You can also check ZDMak Tools at www.zdmak.com and click on "Mercedes Tools/All Mercedes Tools", scroll down to the bottom and click on the 2nd page link. Go to the 9th item and you'll see a picture of the fan clutch lock tool. They sell it for $13.50

I just found ZDMAK while researching this answer for you and they seem to have an awful lot of special tools for our cars at fairly reasonable prices, considering the complexity of some of the tools. Might be worth browsing through the site just to become aware of what they have for future jobs.

Hope this helps,

Gary

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It wasn't a question of the tools. I bought the two tools called out for the M119 engine 103 589 01 09 00 (stubby 8mm) and 603 589 00 40 00 (fan pulley counter holding tool). They both worked great. The issue is there is not enough room for the 8mm stubby and a 3/8 ratchet between the radiator and the fan clutch.

As for sawing off the protruding plastic that is what I thought of. However those holes have two purposes. One hole is to hold the clampp for the trans coolant line (it attaches to both pieces of plastic) and the elongated opening is to hold the bottom of the fan shroud.

Paul

Paul,

Instead of using a ratchet use a 3/8 breaker bar, it's a little thinner. I'm not familiar with the M119 engine, but on my M103 there was just enough room to fit the tool on a breaker bar. And yes, it should go on after the radiator is in.

Gary

On mine the plastic pieces had no purpose to them whatsoever, or at least with the coolant line, it attached with an L clip.

I don't have the lower fan shroud on my car but I can see the plastic being there for that, it does seem that's the only reason fo it to be there.

If you can't saw that off then I see no way off getting the radiator out unless you can get the fan out before.

__________________
1992 Mercedes-Benz 400E
2002 Mercedes-Benz ML500