Replacing Parking Brake Cables - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pesuazo · #1 06-20-2004, 09:48 AM

I have removed the disks and the parking brake shoes, but there is no room to take the pin that holds the cable to the mechanism.
Do I have to remove the hub to have enough clearance?
If so, what size is the hub bolt?
It seems to be a 12 point, but do not know the size.
Any instructions or advise appreciated.

pesuazo · #2 06-20-2004, 06:33 PM

Okay, let me restate the questions.

What size is the rear axle nut?

What size socket should I use to remove it?

1986 300E

csnow · #3 06-21-2004, 11:55 AM

Just in there recently.

I disconnected the parking brake cable at the cable adjusting mechanism (under car, in center) to get some cable slack. With slack, shoe actuating lever assembly can come out from behind hub.

Once in hand, I cleaned and lubed the (seized) actuating lever to free it up.

If you are replacing cable, it was not clear to me how one detaches the cable from the actuating lever, but it will certainly be easier to figure after pulling it out a foot. Must be possible. They are sold separately...

Best of luck.

pesuazo · #4 06-21-2004, 12:19 PM

Thanks, I guess I need to pull hard from behind the hub.
It seemed the shoe actuating lever assembly could not be pulled back.
It appears as if there is only a little hole for the end cable, and the shoe actuating lever assembly has to come out thru the front by taking the hub out.
I will give it another shot tonight.

I am replacing brake shoes and the 2 cables in the back.
You must press out the pin from the mechanism to take the cable out.
I just could not figure out how to get the darn mechanism out of the hub to do so, so I assumed the hub had to come out.

csnow · #5 06-21-2004, 12:26 PM

I think the actuating mechanism is supposed to be separated from the cable, then the cable end pulls through the back plate.

I do not think the hub has to come off.

Here's a picture:

pesuazo · #6 06-21-2004, 01:43 PM

The cable comes from behind the backplate (65), and attaches to the mechanism (59), with the pin (62).
The problem is:
part 59 and 62 are attached to the cable between the hub (no number) and 65. With very little clearance.

If I understand correctly, you are telling me that 59 and 62 can come out thru a hole in 65 (the triangular one)?
It appeared to me the hole is too small, only the end cable fits thru it.

csnow · #7 06-21-2004, 02:12 PM

What I meant to describe is that the actuator lever assembly as a whole (59 & 62) will actually come out (with some creative manipulation) from between the hub and the backplate (65), so long as the other end of the cable is disconnected to get slack.

Once in hand, it should be possible to separate 59 & 62 from each other, such that the cable end with just ferrule (#62) on it would be small enough to pass through the backplate (#65).

How to actually separate 59 & 62 from each other was not clear to me, but given they are sold a separate parts, it must be possible...

pesuazo · #8 06-21-2004, 03:44 PM

OK, I get it.
That creative manipulation was not the one I have been using.
I have slack at the other end, since I did cut the cable. The whole thing is so rusted that I had no choice other than cut the cable in half.
The problem I am having is my lack of creativeness to remove the darn thing. It is a tight fit between the backplate and the hub, and it is hard to get a good hold of the mechanism to pull it out (the cable is so thick with rust that it does not bend)
I will give it another shot this evening or tomorrow.

csnow · #9 06-21-2004, 03:56 PM

Now that we are into destruction (evil grin), I would imagine you could unbolt the cable jacket from the back of the backing plate, cut the cable again right there, and pull the mechanism out with a little more ease.

pesuazo · #10 06-21-2004, 09:17 PM

I tried it. Oh boy what a pain, it still has not come out.
Like I said before, the cable is so rusted is like a steel rod. By pulling the end I cut I can move it back and forth about 1/2, and that is all the room I got between the back panel and the hub.
I am gonna have to wait until the weekend to really give it a good shot. The people in the apartment complex are looking at me funny for working in the parking lot.
I can't wait for my house to be ready, closing will be August 3rd and then I will have a 2 car garage and 4 car driveway to play with.

csnow · #11 06-22-2004, 09:25 AM

I can't explain why, but I had nowhere near that level of difficulty. Was able to pull each lever mechanism out, and put them back, even without unbolting cable jacket.

I think I grabbed it with some channel-locks. I recall it was easier if the lever was completely 'closed' (or 'folded over', for lack of a better term) first.

At some point, it might be easier to just order up a new lever mechanism and pin for $11 per side, then you can beat the snot out of the old ones getting them out. Mine were in rough shape anyways, and it took some time to get them to operate smoothly.

From Phil:
(#59) 201 420 05 89 Shackle $9.75 ea
(#62) 108 427 00 74 Pin $1.20

pesuazo · #12 11-09-2004, 08:47 PM

Well, I had to resurrect the thread to give it closure.
I closed the deal on the house, so I have my garage.
I became creative, and with lots of muscle and creativity was finally able to get them out. Thanks also to my friend Archer, who is always willing to help and give me ideas. He came from Zebulon, NC to give me a hand.
If we could just figure out what @#$% is wrong with his 300E. Had swapped just about every part with my car, and still his problem is there. But that is another story.