separating front disc rotor from the hub

[300SDog]

Has anybody done this lately? According to Chilton's you just tap out the rear bearings and pull em apart, but its not that easy. Previous owner replaced all brake lines and pads on the car and then had the rotors turned. I want to replace them, but cant figure out how to separate rotors from hubs without destroying the rear bearing races. Car is w123 240D, but probly the same as 116 and 114/115.

[jpp]

What You Have To Do Is As Follows, Remove Wheel From Car, Then Remove The Dust Cap That Cover The Front Wheel Bearing Nut, Rmove The Locking Pin From Stub Axle, And Then Remove Nut. Remove Brake Caliper By Removing The Two Bolts At The Back Of The Caliper. Pull The Whole Rotor And Hub Assembly Of The Stub Axle, Be Carefull To Catch The Inner Race Of The Front Wheel Bearing. Put The Assembly On A Workbench And Turn It Around, At The Back You Will See 8 10mm Allen Bolts, Remove These And Then You Will Be Able To Pull The Rotor From The Hub And Replace.

For The Rear Wheels If You Have Disc Brakes, Remove Wheel, Slacken The Parking Brake, And Remove The One Retaining Allen Skrew, Pul The Rotor Off. Much Easier As The Front:d . Good Luck

[MattBelliveau]

When I did my rotors, I had to use a 5-foot pipe on the allen key to turn the allen bolts. Plan on putting some ass behind that key to remove the allen bolts. They are tight, as they should be. Make sure to use some thread lock on the allen bolts when you put the new rotor on.

[nhdoc]

Originally Posted by MattBelliveau

When I did my rotors, I had to use a 5-foot pipe on the allen key to turn the allen bolts. Plan on putting some ass behind that key to remove the allen bolts. They are tight, as they should be. Make sure to use some thread lock on the allen bolts when you put the new rotor on.

I will second this, even after soaking them with PB blaster it took a lot of effort to break them loose. Also, it helps to remount the wheel to the hub with a couple of the lug bolts to give you something to hold if you don't have a vice to hold the hub in while you work.

I also read in the manual after doing mine that you're only supposed to use those bolts that hold the rotor to the hub ONCE and then replace them...I'm sure everyone re-uses them but it was interesting to see that note in there.

[300SDog]

Originally Posted by jpp

Remove Wheel From Car, Then Remove The Dust Cap That Cover The Front Wheel Bearing Nut, Rmove The Locking Pin From Stub Axle, And Then Remove Nut. Remove Brake Caliper By Removing The Two Bolts At The Back Of The Caliper. Pull The Whole Rotor And Hub Assembly Of The Stub Axle, Be Carefull To Catch The Inner Race Of The Front Wheel Bearing. Put The Assembly On A Workbench And Turn It Around, At The Back You Will See 8 10mm Allen Bolts, Remove These And Then You Will Be Able To Pull The Rotor From The Hub And Replace.

Yep and the 10mm allens were no problem with 1/2" drive brakebar, using the lugnut/tire mount method. What you say is exactly what I've done. Also tapped out the rear bearing race. Press fitted rear bearing surface remained, also a metal collar/surround on the rear. And yet the rotor and hub were inseparable. I even tried driving a chissel between them with no success.

(edit: Called a friend who's professional mechanic. He will take a look at the hubs next week.

(edit2: He clamped the hub in a vise this morning and beat the hell out of the old rotor with seldge hammer to knock it loose.

[djd]

You know the old saying - "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer..."
All kidding aside, it's good to know how the problem was resolved. May have to do it myself someday.

[t walgamuth]

oh, and i bet you found five allens not eight.

yeah they cant be played around with, you have to whale them!

tom w