W114 windscreen rubber removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tc20 · #1 09-12-2006, 04:03 AM

Hi All,
im in the process of getting a bit of work done to the car, and this will
include replacing the 4 door seals, and both windscreen rubbers.
My query is such- with regard to the windscreen, and more specifically to the
chrome trim, if it (chrome trim) is removed carefully, then it should be okay to refit after replacement of the windscreen rubber seal, would you agree?
Im gonna get a few new pieces of trim, like the little centre cover and the pieces that fit at the bottom corners of the screen (just in case they deform during removal, and they're not too expensive). Maybe anyone who has performed this operation in the past would care to impart a little knowledge.

Cheers,
tony

meltedpanda · #2 09-13-2006, 09:26 AM

not sure of that. I took the one off my parts car just to see if it could be done. I got it off in one piece but it was deformned to the point of wondering if it would look good in reapplication. It is very flimsy and bends easily. Perhaps the reapplication would straighten it out again, not sure.
Good luck

Rick76 · #3 09-13-2006, 11:58 AM

The windows can be removed and installed re-using the trim if done properly. The window/rubber seal/trim must be removed and installed as an assembly. Trying to take the trim out or put it in with the window installed will damage the trim.

230/8 · #4 09-13-2006, 12:15 PM

Tony:

Your project parallels my own for my old 114. I need a new windshield, and the glass shop is searching for a new unit as I write this. Unfortunately, the CD ROM manual for the 114s does not address glass removal; I will look in my paper copy tonight. So I dug into the 123 CD ROM manual and there is a pretty good explanation in job 67-100 and 67-120. The pdfs are too large to accompany this reply or I would have attached them, but you can get access to them here:

http://mercedes.braingears.com/

The 114 and 123 cars both use rubber gaskets to retain the windshield. The glass is removed by carefully prying the rubber loose with a plastic wedge from the inside starting at the top center. You must remove the interior trim pieces around the pillars and top of the windshield.

Once you have the glass free from the body, easier said than done, the windshield and gasket assembly can be laid upon a brace on the bench. The chrome trim strips are then carefully removed by sliding them out of their grooves in the gasket. A new gasket is then installed on a new glass and the chrome strips are inserted in the reverse of their removal...on the bench, not after the glass is installed in the car.

Hope this helps.

230/8

alabbasi · #5 09-13-2006, 12:47 PM

Removing the old windscreen and replacing it is a big pain in the butt. I did that on my w108 when I had it painted and the painters *****ed at me for a month. Eventually they washed their hands off it and made me pay a pro to come and do it and it took him hours. Save your mind and get a pro to replace the windshield rubber. For $300 he'll replace the glass and the rubber.

jenseng · #6 09-14-2006, 02:00 AM

Drew of this forum and I have gone through and done jobs on the order of an engine swap, switching from 4 to 5 cylinders on a 115 with MT sucessfully. Unfortunately, the rear glass is up there with this level of diffculty. If you are not a professional with several runs at sucessfully putting in seal/trim style glass with tools, chemicals, know-how you are not qualified to do this and for that matter neither were we.

The gasket must be applied to the glass and the trim installed into the gasket then you have to get the inner part of the gasket around the frame. Sounds simple enough... This is about like trying to wrestle a ball of snakes.

Drew and I spent about 6 hours trying to install a rear window. fortunately we were able to fail without damaging the trim in the process. At that point I was able to make an appointment with a local glass shop that was willing to take on the job. Other glass shops knew about this type of install and were not willing to even take on the job. I was able to get firm quote of $435 for new front glass with gasket and re-sealing the old rear with my new gasket. The mobile installer arrived about 5 hours late with the new front window with the intention of getting the rear window in. He took one look at the car and said. "Oh, you have one of those...." He said this take about three people to wrestle and he was going to call the owner to ask for this job to be an in-shop type job for now and into the future.

They asked for the car for one week and they have had the car for 2 weeks so far. The new rear seal would not hold the trim after several attempts and a new seal needed to be ordered. The distributor the glass shop uses was not able to order the new rear seal directly and I had to have a seal drop-shipped from a California dealer ($45)

It took 3 full attempts to get the new front glass and new seal installed and perfectly centered. They should get the new rear seal on Friday of this week. At this point I have a new respect for glass installers and will be tipping heavily and buying the installers lunch. This could easily be a $1,000 job that I am stealing for $435.

I hope your job goes well,
Glen

Rick76 · #7 09-14-2006, 05:24 AM

The biggest mistake people make is not getting the trim properly seated in the rubber seal, then when you install the window, the trim does not fit down tight. Corners are the worst area. A lubricant such as isopropal alcohol works well as it will completely evaporate. Even then it must sit at least overnight. A lubricant that makes getting the trim in the channel easier that doesn't disappear will help the trim pop out when you go to install the window assembly. I have seen many "professional" jobs where the installer has taken a rubber mallet to the trim to try to get it back in the rubber. This bends the delicate aluminum trim and shatters the anodized coating.

When installing the assembly in the vehicle, the outside helper who is putting slight pressure inward must as well put slight pressure in the downward direction as the assembly tends to creep up in the opening as you are installing it.

Another problem is sealing compound. In the Mercedes instructions, sealing is the last instruction after the window is installed. I don't know how one would get the sealer in after as the assembly fits so tight to the weld flange (between glass and rubber can be done). I would say the sealer has to be applied to the weld flange before installation (right in the corner). This makes for a messy job if your first attempt at installing the window fails.

meltedpanda · #8 09-14-2006, 08:11 AM

makes me glad I never attempted this. I had my 84 300SD rear window done by a professional and was very impressed at his technique and thought by watching perhaps I could do it on my 220...wrong

I think I will give him a call

tc20 · #9 09-14-2006, 08:24 AM

Thanks for the input guys, really appreciate it.
Theres no way in hell id attempt to do the job myself, i just wanted to have a best approach method, which i could pass on to Steve (my mech). I think i'll order the full chrome trim set now, to be sure. I might leave the rear windscreen (do you call it a windshield in the US?) as it seems to be in ok condition, with no sign of water ingress. i know the front is leaking for sure, and altho water doesnt seem to getting past the door seals, they are quite tatty.
Cheers
tony