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#1
11-13-2006, 09:46 PM
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Idle speed adjustment - 1967 W108 250SE
Hi,
I have observed that whilst the engine is running and car in the Park (P) position the motor revs are fairly high, but once the car is placed in either Reverse or Drive, the auto transmission is engaged quite harshly and the idle speed is very low and occasionally the engine stalls. I have adjusted the idle speed screw and whilst I can obtain a range of idle speeds, I still have very low idle when the car is placed in Drive. After a few minutes of spirited driving, the idle speed whilst in Drive is still very low but not at the stalling point. My tacho/dwell meter is broken (thanks to junior) but idle speed is definitely not 750-800rpm. Other than this, the car starts first go and performs well with good acceleration. I would appreciate your comments and advice. Regards, Tassie Tiger 
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#3
11-14-2006, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
There are two that operate in tandem, on the front part of the manifold by the head and on the back of the injection pump. Do not ever adjust the knob on the back of the injection pump with the engine running. Only move one click at a time and then adjust the idle air bypass knob on the intake manifold. Never adjust the linkage stop screws. A high idle will overheat and wear out an autobox. Fix any vacuum leaks as previously stated.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
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#4
11-15-2006, 12:27 AM
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I adjusted the idle speed with the idle air bypass screw on the inlet manifold. Last night I set the mixture adjustment screw on the pump one click clockwise to make it richer and the idle seemed to improve marginally but still not perfect. I will search for vacuum leaks and advise what I find.
Tassie Tiger.
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#5
11-15-2006, 10:11 PM
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Does your car have the idle control mechanism that monitors the trans pressure and adjusts the idle speed? It attaches to the right side of the engine and has a plunger that contacts a stop on the pivot rod that goes across the engine. It is supposed to stabilize the idle at low RPM.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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#6
11-16-2006, 12:23 AM
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Chuck,
it does have this solenoid and I have never adjusted it - I thought it was for cars equipped with air conditioning to stabilise the idle. What is the best method of adjusting this? Regards, Tassie Tiger
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#7
11-17-2006, 10:13 PM
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Beats me
I have never had a car that had one that worked. I would start by seeing if you have any sort of voltage reading on the wires.
Try a search on http://www.sl113.org/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=2. The Pagodas also had these. Good luck.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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#8
11-19-2006, 02:32 PM
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I'm pretty sure the solenoid is for A/C. My SEL has one that "works" It only comes on with the A/C.
My SE was experiencing problems very similar to yours, I blame it on the Injection pump. I could get some idle adjustment out of the air screw when in N, but if I tried to adjust it in gear, almost nothing changed. I got it to idle ok (somewhere around 1000-1100 in N, and MAYBE 5-600 in D) by adjusting the idle mixture so it ran very rich. I dont suggest it. If you havn't already read about the injection pump, you need to be VERY careful with adjustments - write EVERYTHING down, every notch, and in what direction. By the time I got the car to run ok I had no idea where the idle screw was. I know its not even close to running right - Hooked it up to a gas analyzer - running about 20% CO and Hydrocarbons off the chart. Shortly after I blew a head gasket (unrelated - had a bad radiator) I pulled off the intake manifold and stripped about 1/8" of carbon buildup off the inside of the intake manifold. After I reassembled everything the problem seemed to go away. No more stalling with D engaged You should be able to get some idea of how nasty the intake looks by looking up the throttle body. Along with the manifold I also lapped in the valves, and cleaned out the ports in the head, and exhaust manifold. They weren't even close to as bad as the intake, but I'm sure that probably helped a bit too.
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#9
11-20-2006, 09:54 PM
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I had a closer look at the idle solenoid over the weekend and in fact it does energise when the car is placed in drive. The reason why the idle speed did not increase was due to wear in the linkage "snap on" ball fittings on the throttle lever. As the solenoid energised, it took up all the slack in the ball fittings but did not actually move the main throttle linkages to the MFI pump and venturi. I will replace these fittings in the near future. Thanks for your suggestions and help.
Regards, Tassie Tiger
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