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Effective replacement for vac central locking system.
Hi guys,
What do you all think about these aftermarket products that replace the vacuum elements with electricals and solenoids? I saw a 4-door set for something like 120 USD. I thought, that's a good deal for something that'd rid me of my leaky central vac system. Also, does anyone know a better deal/higher quality set? -Troy
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- - - '77 federal 280e - 222k miles - - - '85 380se - 129k miles - - - '07 Chevy truck - - - '79 Datsun 280zx with '82 turbo motor - - - Currently looking for a clean 190e with less than 160k miles. |
#2
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I put this system in my 450SEL.
Works great. I don't use the security part of the system but wanted it just in case I ever changed my mind. I did hook up the blinking LED. I also bought two extra actuators for the trunk and gas door but have not installed them yet. Installation was very easy, remove the vacuum actuators and use the supplied rods to connect the electric actuators. The trunk and gas door will take a bit of creative bracketry but shouldn't be a real problem. Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033 Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120 |
#3
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That looks like a very complete kit. The security system might be a bit much.
Does anyone have any experience with the set offered by APS parts? I think the website is autopartsguru.com They sell a four door kit for $90. Considering that there's no alarm or trunk/fuel door component, is that a good deal? -Troy
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- - - '77 federal 280e - 222k miles - - - '85 380se - 129k miles - - - '07 Chevy truck - - - '79 Datsun 280zx with '82 turbo motor - - - Currently looking for a clean 190e with less than 160k miles. |
#4
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Sounds expensive to me. I bought a 4 solenoids and a remote module off eBay for $45.
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#5
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Quote:
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1989 300E 144K |
#6
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That looks interesting. I know that it really just requires a relay module as a control base.
The four solenoids are only considered based on their force rating. I think the minimum I heard somewhere was 25 lbs force (?). I guess. I guess I'm really just looking for a set that's complete and ready to bolt in but I'd consider piecing it together. Just not the electronics. -Troy
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- - - '77 federal 280e - 222k miles - - - '85 380se - 129k miles - - - '07 Chevy truck - - - '79 Datsun 280zx with '82 turbo motor - - - Currently looking for a clean 190e with less than 160k miles. |
#7
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Quote:
But my 240D doesn't have central locking, so I'm thinking of going with a 4 door set...I haven't had these doors apart, so I don't know how hard it would be to install rods and such to push the locks up and down. If you're replacing the vacuum system, you've got the convenience of using the existing pushrods, etc. The only think you have to be careful of is the solenoids have a sudden actuation and its quite a bit more forceful than the slow-moving vacuum elements. You wouldn't want to bend or kink the rods over time...maybe freshen the grease on the plastic guides. The one on my wagon eventually worked the clamp loose that attaches the solenoid rod to the door lock rod inside the door from all of the sudden jolts from locking/unlocking...so I used locktite when I re-tightened it. If it does it again, I'm using JB weld.
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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi 1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now |
#8
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Here's the one I got from ebay for $30 including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-DOOR-KEYLESS-ENTRY-SYSTEM-4-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-MOTORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33723QQihZ008QQitemZ180239058054QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ht_2123wt_ 0 I also repaired my vacuum leaks and just used the master solenoid to control the driver door lock. That way I still can control the fuel door and hatch lock. It was a PITA to run the wires through the accordian and the door jamb. I think fixing the leaks in the vacuum system is easier than running all new wires for electric actuators.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#9
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I chose the MES stuff as I didn't want to ever have to open the door panels again. I thought about the look-a-like stuff from JC Whitney but went with the MES instead. Because the front door actuators are masters, unlocking/locking either front door with a key will unlock/lock everything else.
The security system adds the benefit of the dome light coming on for 30 seconds when the doors are unlocked remotely. Connecting the actuators to the lock mechanism was actually easy. The vacuum units push/pulled on a spring loaded part that allowed for manual operation. I cut the supplied rods, bent one end 90 degrees, heated it and hammered it to form a head just like the one on the other end. I joined the rods with the supplied coupling, let everything hang like a plumb bob and marked the door for two mounting holes. Took about 15 minutes per door. Pulling the wire through the door is a very messy job but because the hard plastic lines where snapping at the door jambs and I have at least one bad check valve and that little spring loaded part in the lock on the passenger side front was missing the spring and I still have vacuum leaks I can't find, it was worth it to me. Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033 Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120 |
#10
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I also bought a set off ebay (I believe from audioadaptors) for about $30 plus about $15 for shipping, had 2 remotes and all the fittings, it was also an imobilizer but I didnt use that part just the central door locking. I removed all of the vacuum stuff and even though i reconnected the tubes under the hood I also bypassed all the relevant tubes in the door just in case. fitting was really easy, I could only find 2 pics in a quick scan of my photos but if anyone want more I will do a better search through my pictures. I fitted the solenoid where the vacuum pods had been then linked the solenoid with the supplied fittings to the same point where the vacuum pods connected. I also lubed everything as I hate taking door panels off.
I love it, push button entry and i cut out a whole source of vacuum leaks for the djet!
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61 Austin mini 67 Lotus 7 74 450sl 76 Cadillac 8.2l (501 ci) some new cars megasquirt conversion on: djet 74 450sl http://www.mercdjetmegasquirt.britautorepair.com/ cis 76 450sl http://www.merccismegasquirt.britautorepair.com/ the best view is always from the point of no return |
#11
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Nice. I might as well do it for my 380se. I hate the delay on the vacuum actuators. God knows what motivated them to do everything by vacuum. Solenoids are so much easier and reliable.
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- - - '77 federal 280e - 222k miles - - - '85 380se - 129k miles - - - '07 Chevy truck - - - '79 Datsun 280zx with '82 turbo motor - - - Currently looking for a clean 190e with less than 160k miles. |
#12
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It works every time. Since my car may not move for a week, the vacuum would bleed off and the passenger door would misbehave. The fuel door somehow got plumbed backwards and would unlock when I locked the doors. Not any more. Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033 Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120 |
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