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#8
10-19-2008, 09:33 PM
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Hello,
I have been able to just remove the front driveshaft and replace the support and bearing saving a lot of time. I use a air chisel with a blunt end to drive the old assembly off the shaft while in the car after the front driveshaft is removed and the lock ring is removed. Remember to mark the driveshaft halves so they go back on exactly. I use the correct size metal or plastic tube to drive the new parts back onto the shaft. I am able to do the job in about 45 minutes. Most mechanics will remove the entire drive shaft quite a bit more work figure at least 2 hours. Also the drive shaft will have to be compressed. There is a telescoping section locked by a large nut 46mm and 42mm. You will have to loosen these to start. The CV boots require an expensive MB tool to crimp the metal cans after the new rubber is installed. Find someone who is supplying split boots for this model. I heard they are available. You can also get re-built half shafts. Still expensive. It requires a bit of work to remove the half shafts. Lower diff, remove rear cover, remove lock rings, unfasten bolt at rear brake disc and remove the half shaft. The split boot still seems like a good idea!
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Joe Alexander Blacklick, Ohio 1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday) 1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army) 1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold) 1969 280SL Pagoda 1973 280SEL 4.5 1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans) 1982 300D turbo (winter driver) 1986 560SEC 1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army) 1991 300TE (wife) 2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp) 
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