1967 250 S Locks and Keys

[Loz]

Hi,

Anyone got tips for how to overcome the worn and redundant locks on my doors and boot. DOors are okay I can leave them open for now but I can't get into the boot.

The barrel sticks or swivels free of the housings. It will even come about a centimetre out of the housing with the key in and rotate. but the rotation in situe or out does not allow for the opening of the boot?

Any tips for how to get in much appreciated.

Obviously last resort is a lock smith.

[ja17]

Hello,

Later W108 cars came with the "one double cut key" that fit all locks including the ignition. Changing them all in your car would be quite a task, especially the ignition switch.

I suggest taking the door handles off. They remove easily without removal of the door panels. Just take the screw off at the door side upper and shove the handle forward. It will then lift off. Some practice may be required. The handles and locks come completely apart and can be cleaned lubed with graphite and or repaired. You can even change the tumblers if your are patient and careful. If you need some good spare parts let me know I have a barrel of W108 door handles.

[Loz]

Thank you,

That is really good info. Can you advise anyway to get into the boot? That is really my major stumbling block.

The ignition is a really waggle affair. I blisters on my left hand had have started using my right to waggle the key to get it to turn and start. Is replacing the ignition barrel a big job?

I wouldn't mind having a different key. At the moment the only place the key works is the ignition! So when I fix or replace the doors and most importantly the boot (hell, I don't even know how many bodies are in there, or kilos of golden triangle opium!) I would be happy to have two keys for the car, or three!

[Loz]

Okay, looks like I have to open the trunk myself.

Can anyone post a close up picture of the lock unit 'birds eye view' so I can see what part the cylinder should have screwed onto. Then I can find a way to fish around for it. or see if I can slide something under the boot lid to push the catch back. I HAVE to open the boot.

Any bright ideas?

Just to clarify. the tumble assembly of the boot lock has come unscrewed from the lever that moved the catch so it wont open.

Cheers!

[gmatthewb]

The lock turns a tab that's mounted to the rear of the lock. In one position (locked) the button will push in but will not make contact with the boot latch (lever). In the other position (unlocked), the tab on the rear of the lock cylinder will push the boot latch, and the boot lid will open. VOILA.

Although it seems a little brutish, I would recommend drilling the lock cylinder. (It seems like you're in a bit of a hurry.) Then you can insert a rod or other item to push the latch open and open the boot.

You'll have to replace the lock mechanism, but you'll have the access you need. You can get a replacement lock and have it re-keyed to fit your key code.

I've had better success having a key cut from the code alone (not from your worn key). The key code is on the hidden part of your original key, your pink card, or on the body of some of the cylinders (try the glove box). I may be wrong, but your key code may be two letters followed by four digits (HZ1234).

Changing the ignition switch/lock assembly is a real pain in the arse.

[Loz]

thank you so much for some useful advice!

I don't need to drill the lock though the home tumbler assembly can be slid out so are you saying I just need to press the back of the lock? IE push a screw driver in there and push?

Or is there a latch that I have to rumage around for. I'll have a fumble when daylight returns.

If I was not in any kind of a hurry, what would you suggest?

Cheers sincerely,

Loz

[ja17]

Hello,

As last resort, you can drill a tiny 1/8" hole just under the lock assembly at the rubber seal. When drilled in the correct place it is nearly invisible and a bit of silicone seal will keep the weather out afterward. After the tiny hole is drilled in the correct place, inserting a 1/8" welding rod will trip the latch and you will not destroy your lock assembly which then can be removed and repaired. It's easy and takes only a few minutes. I have had to do it on many occassions over the years. email me for a pic of the exact location.

ja17@att.net

The process works on the W110, W111, W108, W109, W114 and W115 sedans, but the location of the hole varies in different models. Models after 1975 had more tamper proof lock assemblies.

[Loz]

Thanks Joe,

You have e mail ;o)

Loz

[Loz]

ps. on drilling, would a coat hanger straightend out open the latch? Not sure where I'd get my hands on welding rods ;o?

[ja17]

Hello,

Welding rod is not a must. A wire coat hanger or small screw driver works also.

[Loz]

THanks for the E mail. I will set about the lock tomorrow unless madness takes over and I buy a drill tonight!

Now, what made someone think I was in a hurry to find out how many bodies the previous owner left in my boot....?

[Loz]

Jeez,

I must be the worlds worst locksmith. I have the hole. (as per pics) I have the welding rod. I can "feel" something latch-like moving against a spring but I can't get it to move enough to pop the trunk.

Can I help it at all by pulling the trunk (gentle leverage) or pushing it forwards while working the (now bent at one end!) welding rod.

I feel mechanically retarded tonight. What kind of numpty can't even get into their own trunk?

Er.. that would be me!

[Loz]

Panic over!!

I'm in!!! and fixed the latch too... with a little misuse of the welding rod...