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  #46  
Old 07-06-2010, 04:00 PM
GGR GGR is offline
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Thanks Army,

This is what I would need. I'd rather look for one which is for rent in the DC area. I'm not going to invest in one as I only have one car to use it with and have no space to store it.

Charles, I believe the previous owner did a major job already. It doesn't look bad at all now but two years of daily driving in all weather conditions and 50.000 miles later I need to treat some areas to make sure it remains OK. I then want to paint all the underside just for cosmetics.

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  #47  
Old 07-06-2010, 07:26 PM
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGR View Post
Thanks Army,

This is what I would need. I'd rather look for one which is for rent in the DC area. I'm not going to invest in one as I only have one car to use it with and have no space to store it.

Charles, I believe the previous owner did a major job already. It doesn't look bad at all now but two years of daily driving in all weather conditions and 50.000 miles later I need to treat some areas to make sure it remains OK. I then want to paint all the underside just for cosmetics.
I think your plan is fine. Just a bit awkward to get at underside without some sort of lift. But I am sure it can be done.

Those rollers are popular in the UK, but i have not seen one here. This link gives a good explanation:

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CBQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fagua.nu%2Fds-files%2Ftony-jackson%2Fred-cd%2FChassis%2520stuff%2FGrumpy%2520Roller.pdf&ei=cLkzTPSaJt7pnQfistT4Aw&usg=AFQjCNEnJGx4n-C6B23v-PfxIue4td3YlA&sig2=ZKIZKxsfFmj0FTkslYwCaw
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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  #48  
Old 07-06-2010, 08:36 PM
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Location: Germantown, TN
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Originally Posted by GGR View Post
Thanks Army and Graham,

I will brush and clean all the uderside, then apply Marine Clean, rince, apply Metal Ready, rince and apply POR-15 in the relevant areas. I will then apply chassis black coat everywhere. It-s not going to be a fun job though as the only installation I have are four jack stands.

BE SAFE under the car!!! Test the jack stands and also leave the floor jack up under there for extra measure of safety. Also, stack spare tires up if you have any.
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Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #49  
Old 07-06-2010, 08:55 PM
GGR GGR is offline
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Will do. But given that the car will be without rad, engine, trans, front and rear axle, prop shaft and fuel tank I guess it will be light enough to be put on a rotisserie (I could also take off the seats but not the glass or the doors). If I can find one to rent, I'd rather go that way: It will be safer and way easier.
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  #50  
Old 07-07-2010, 10:21 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
POOR MAN"S RUSTPROOFING

I've had good luck using 90-weight gear-oil.
Obviously it won't be very effective under car-floors. But it works well in tight areas, like inside the rear wheel-arches and door bottoms. The rear wheel arches of my '72 250 were just beginning to rust in the welds when I aquired it in 1988. I went in the trunk with a pump oil-can and soaked the crevice where the inner housing was welded to the fender. While this car did eventually rust in numerous other places, the rear arches were still intact 15 years later. More recently, I've been applying my 90-weight treatment inside the door bottoms of my 240Ds whenever I've had to get in there to fix something like a door-stop or vacuum-lock. However, the stuff will smell for awhile!

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #51  
Old 07-07-2010, 03:19 PM
Stretch's Avatar
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It might still be heavy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by GGR View Post
Will do. But given that the car will be without rad, engine, trans, front and rear axle, prop shaft and fuel tank I guess it will be light enough to be put on a rotisserie (I could also take off the seats but not the glass or the doors). If I can find one to rent, I'd rather go that way: It will be safer and way easier.
If you take stuff off it will be lighter but here's some information to put things in context:-

On my 1981 W123 300D I have recently

Removed the fuel tank (and all fuel lines)
Removed the wheels and brakes
Removed all of the front suspension components
Removed the prop shaft and exhaust
Removed the rear suspension differential and sub frame

I pretty much stripped the underside except for the gear box (auto) and engine - in the engine bay:- removed oil cooler lines, master brake cylinder, brake booster, radiator, power steering pump, battery etc etc

Stripped out the seats inside too...


HERE'S the point:-


Could I lift the back of the car off of the axle stands?


Could I bugg...

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