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#2
11-22-2010, 08:16 AM
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easy job.
Jack up rear, as far as you can. Support with jackstands. Remove rear seat bottom. push in the two red buttons and it will lift right out. Unbolt rear seat back. two bolts, seat will lift straight up/ there may be plastic plugs covering the top bolts of the shocks, remove the nuts on top. Usually they are double nutted. Remove the bolts on the underside. Installation in reverse order.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes 
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#3
11-27-2010, 12:56 PM
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Be sure to support the rear trailing arms (to which the shocks are bolted) before disconnecting the shocks.
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 Don't Chrome them; polish them
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#4
11-27-2010, 02:34 PM
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Assuming you're talking about a W123 follow the advice written above but:-
When undoing the nuts on the top of the shocks make sure you stop the spindle from turning. If you have gas shocks installed and you inadvertently undo them you can injure yourself or the car! So hold the spindle (about 7mm thick flat bit) and then undo the nut which could be a single nut with a plastic shake proof insert or two nuts used in a locked formation. Under the car you'll have to undo two bolts that screw into the bottom of the trailing arm These can be rusted in place so soak with penetrating oil the night before. The only reason you'll need to jack up the car is to get clearance to remove the shocks. If you are lucky enough to have a pit or a bridge you could skip this stage.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 11-29-2010 at 08:20 AM. Reason: Spelling correction
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#5
11-29-2010, 12:14 AM
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thanks Army. i still haven't done them yet. more serious that i now replace/repair axle.
doesn't look like gas shocks, i even wonder if they've ever been replaced. perhaps many years ago. it has 338k. what a find you have, an '81 with only 100k.
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#6
11-29-2010, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
If you've only got to do axle boots there is loads of information on this forum about it. Basically it comes down to lots of work and a proper job with thick axle boots or a quicker job that won't last as long with those flexible boots... I must confess I went down the route of grease and the quick cheapo boots as I have the type of axles that need to be cut apart to fit the real thick good boots... (This is not a popular choice with some)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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