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#16
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I can't speak for their other parts- but I've installed literally dozens of Uro window seals on Fintails and W108s and I've never had a problem. Maybe it's because come 2017 I'll have *gulp* 40 years in the biz... I don't know. I've installed both aftermarket and Genuine seals, and I really don't see a hell of a difference, either in difficulty of installation or longevity. In fact, the worst installation I ever remember was with NOS OE seals on a 1958 220S. they must have been a little past their shelf- life, but once in and treated, they were OK.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#17
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Thanks for the vote of confidence - works for me. I am looking forward to tackling mine. So in short, put the seal around the glass first, then trim pieces and then into the car right?
As to any sealent, what kind if any sealent do you use, and do you put it in the track where the glass goes only? I read some places that say you use sealant but I have no idea as to what. I assume it has to be something that sets up slow. Thanks Tram.
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1969 Model 220 gasoline Chassis: W115.010 |
#18
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The upper corners on the OEM (W111) seal wasn't molded in the same was as the lower corners were, but they definitely held a curved shape unlike the aftermarket seals that were straight rubber the wouldn't hold to the curved glass.
As far as sealant goes, the factory used something identical to plumber's putty, which can be purchased in a tub at a hardware store. You roll it into a bead and place along the sealing surface of the body like in the picture below (sorry it's once again a W111 pictured): If you don't use the Mercedes sealing compound, you can usually source 3M Bedding & Glazing Compound 08509 (non-hardening black--NOT hardening 3M Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane 08609--that's for glue-on gaskets, but might be useful for filling in large gaps or broken portions of the seal) at an auto parts or auto body supply store. However, if you don't do the job on a summer day or in a heated building, chances are the tube will blow out partway through the job and you'll have to get another one. Removing the contents of the tube and putting them in metal applicator of some sort might prevent dealing with bursting tubes, especially if you can get a heated applicator tool. Since it is non-hardening, I believe you can apply it between the seal and glass before installing and wipe off the excess with a plastic scraper and glass cleaner. As an additional measure, you can use a plastic prybar and insert the tip of the sealant tube under the seal to body area and fill this area with sealant, though the plumber's putty should be enough. When I changed both windshield seals on my friend's car, I decided to first install the new headliner. I am very glad I decided to do this, because I think it would be impossible to install the headliner with the windshields in place; there would be no way to pull it tight enough.
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
#19
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I've always used a bead of black or clear Permatex Silicone Adhesive Sealant under the outside edge that seals to the body after install, and never had issues.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#20
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Thanks so much for the help on the sealant. I did not think about plumbers putty - a good idea. I know I can heat the 3m sealent in a bucket of Hot water for a while, I did that when I worked construction with all kinds of caulking on cold days.
I agree - no way to get that headliner in correctly withoug pulling the reat window seal - on the 220 there is a trim piece that covers several inches of the front ceiling to windshield edge - I have not removed it yet but I would bet you can attach the headliner to that area on the front without removal of the front windshield. I would like to replace the front windshield seal but I am going to avoid it if I can. The bottom of the seal on the interior looks as though it is below the forward most edge of the dash - I do not want to have to remove the dash, no way no how! I think I can reseal the front by injecting silicone under the seal to body to fill the gap - that is my hope anyway. Chris
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1969 Model 220 gasoline Chassis: W115.010 |
#21
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Like a stupid dummy I bought uro end links a year later had to change them.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#22
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Suspension, brake, etc. - I don't go cheap.
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1969 Model 220 gasoline Chassis: W115.010 |
#23
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#24
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That's not what I said. I said that I've installed lots of their windshield seals and haven't had problems. I also said that maybe my years of experience may be why I don't have problems with them but others do. Understand? Please don't put words in my mouth, and don't get all sarcastic just because you want to slam the brand... girl.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#25
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If you have an ax to grind, don't make your problem my problem. Thanks. Again, this thread is about windshield seals- I'm by no means endorsing the entire line. It's like Harbor Freight tools- I may buy a cheapie specialty tool from them to do a few jobs and get great results; I'm certainly not going to let anything HF be the only barrier between me and death or dismemberment.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#26
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And that's the key- picking your parts based on safety. Nothing unsafe about windshield seals.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#27
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I agree that experienced installers can make the job of installing aftermarket windshield seals look easy, and I buy Harbor freight stuff too. But let's be honest, URO is crap and windshield seals can fail. When they do, they'll cause your car to rust from the inside out in places that you will not typically see such as the firewall and under the seal.
This may not cause immediate catastrophic damage in the same way that the flex disc did when it failed, but unless you put a set on 5 years ago, then removed the windshield to inspect the condition of the metal beneath it; then confirmed that the metal was as good as it was when you first installed the seals? I would be skeptical of any statement to indicate that there is nothing wrong with them. The important thing to understand is that if they sell junk flex discs which can ruin a car and possibly kill its occupants, then it's clear that they have no inkling of quality control. So why would I trust them to keep water out of my rust free car?
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With best regards Al |
#28
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I think Tram was saying that the URO product quality is great, and it's installer inexperience/error that is the reason that the Yurro parts are not working out for folks.
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#29
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That's not what I said, but don't let an annoying little fact like that get in the way of your fantasies.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#30
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What you said seems pretty clear to me, o Master. |
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