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  #1  
Old 09-26-2012, 11:33 AM
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250C Newbie

I finally got brave and purchased a 1972 250C. All the electrics function, except for the horn and the foglamps. I started tracing the wires from the lamps and the horns. They travel together in a bundle up the front left fender, towards the fusebox, but end inexplicably in a couple of connectors that are not attached to anything
Living in South Florida, the foglamps are not a big deal, but the horn is. Any ideas?

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 09-26-2012, 11:43 AM
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That may be where the relays should be and that's why the connectors are hanging
Pictures ?
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  #3  
Old 09-26-2012, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny33012 View Post
I finally got brave and purchased a 1972 250C. All the electrics function, except for the horn and the foglamps. I started tracing the wires from the lamps and the horns. They travel together in a bundle up the front left fender, towards the fusebox, but end inexplicably in a couple of connectors that are not attached to anything
Living in South Florida, the foglamps are not a big deal, but the horn is. Any ideas?

Thanks!
It sounds like you need a horn
I'd love to sell you one, but I'm pretty sure you can find an MB horn at a local junk yard.
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Al
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  #4  
Old 09-30-2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MEPEH View Post
That may be where the relays should be and that's why the connectors are hanging
Pictures ?
The W114 did not use a horn relay. Here are pictures of the connectors. They are located underneath the battery shelf.
Attached Thumbnails
250C Newbie-connector-photo.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2012, 10:07 PM
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another problem...turn signals

Here's another problem. The turn signals work, but they won't cancel automatically after completing a turn. I saw a thread on turn signals, but the pictures were gone.
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  #6  
Old 10-08-2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kenny33012 View Post
Here's another problem. The turn signals work, but they won't cancel automatically after completing a turn. I saw a thread on turn signals, but the pictures were gone.
Usually when this is the case it's because the turn signal stalk had the opposite issue, they wouldn't hold so somebody may have performed the "file technique" to allow the stalk to hold it's spot again when activated. If too much material has been filed away then they will hold and not release. You can either go in and slightly re-file the mechanism or I'd leave it and just let it wear down on it's own over time. If there was another cause you saw in that thread I may have missed it.
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1962 220SE W111 Coupe, 2nd owner

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  #7  
Old 10-14-2012, 11:38 PM
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Window regulators?

Thanks for the info on the turn signals. It appears someone did get a little overzealous trying to fix a problem... I'll just get used to cancelling signals by hand for now.
On another note, I noticed that the power windows don't line up quite correctly with the rear windows, or with the rubber seal at the top, leaving a small gap at the top which is smaller at the front, larger at the back. Where the front window is supposed to line up with the edge of the rear window it actually overlaps onto the chrome trim.
Question. Is there a way to align the window glass on these cars?
Thanks!
Ken
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  #8  
Old 10-17-2012, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny33012 View Post
Thanks for the info on the turn signals. It appears someone did get a little overzealous trying to fix a problem... I'll just get used to cancelling signals by hand for now.
On another note, I noticed that the power windows don't line up quite correctly with the rear windows, or with the rubber seal at the top, leaving a small gap at the top which is smaller at the front, larger at the back. Where the front window is supposed to line up with the edge of the rear window it actually overlaps onto the chrome trim.
Question. Is there a way to align the window glass on these cars?
Thanks!
Ken

Coupe door windows fall out of alignment quickly.
Tracks are adjustable, just fiddly.

Jim
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  #9  
Old 10-17-2012, 08:24 PM
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Oh W111 coupes the door window glass is supposed to fit over the rear side glass chrome frame when raised, meaning if you ran your hand along the glass from front to rear your hand would ramp down when you get to the rear section, they are not flush. It's just how they are designed to keep water out being a (technically) frameless design on the front. The gap at the top isn't normal of course and can be adjusted as stated, tho I have never done that.

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