Going for the 2-fer... maybe.

[Prospector]

I have never owned a German Car. I did own a car whose name badge was Swedish for Ford, and it spent more time in the shop than I care to admit. The late 90's was not good to Volvo - especially the turbo in the one I had.

In any case, I have stumbled across a pair of Mercedes in a shed that a fellow wants gone. After some initial reading online, I think they could be fun. I'd love your thoughts...

Car 1 - Smokey Slug on Wheels - 1982 240D. The mechanicals on this car are actually quite good. It has the typical vacuum issues, but after much reading I think those could be fixed. It also has a badly rotted driver's door. I am not sure that a replacement is readily available, but equally rotted doors are not hard to find. I am aware of bodyshop fixes for this, but they seem expensive for what this car is. With the door replaced, this car is road ready, but definitely not show ready. Maybe I can bondo the bottom half of the door together since this will be a beater. (Did I just say that!?!?!)

The 240 is so simple that for a kid's first car, it should be great to troubleshoot, repair, and learn on. Oh, and she thinks the car is 'cute' and 'cool.' I am aware of the limitations of a 30 year old clunker as a first car - it has exactly 0 airbags, and I doubt ABS existed when it was built, but the metal on it looks solid as hell, so I don't see it as a death trap - I can't say the same for a 2012 Focus.

Car 2 - No Start, No Problem! - 1975 450SL Looks pretty, but has no-start issues. The seller has attempted a full tune up but can't get it to go. I think the fuel system needs a going over, but this car really is a pig-in-a-poke if it can't be driven. Body wise it is in good shape, and has no real issues to speak of. Comes with hard top. I haven't seen the condition of the soft top.

The appeal of this deal is that the 240D could be a good learner car for my daughter on stick shift, and the 450 could be a decent project for me. I have no interest in body work, but if I can stumble through mechanicals, that's fine.

Asking price on the pair is around $5,000. Am I buying a nightmare, or should i enter the ring with head held high?

[TnBob]

5k is outrageous.

The 240 sound like a rusted out parts car...value ... maybe $500 if there are lots of parts you need.

450's are notorious money pits from what Ive read here.

Pls note .. the lowest Hagerty price is for a running vehicle.
Price Guide Report

You can do far far better for 5k than two non running MB's.
My '89 300E was under $2500 fully registered

[Prospector]

Thanks for the honest opinion Bob.

Looking on local ads, most of the 240d's I'm seeing are around $1500 - 2000 and most 450's are lunchbucket prices skywards of $9,000.

I thought maybe this could be a decent venture. Today I spoke with our family mechanic (good guy) and he says he won't even touch the Mercedes. Too many hassles with specs and and the wiring issues are too difficult to tackle. His advice was to back away. Knowing that I am king of the $1500 car, he pointed me in the direction of a Subaru instead. But I really like the simplicity and panache of the 240D. Actually I'm more intrigued by it than the convertible.

Hmmmm. 2 votes against now. Maybe I just fix up the current rustbucket.

[Marrs]

For $5,000 you can find a really wonderful vintage Benz that will require little to no work if it has been driven, and at that price they should be runners. The Fintail sedans and Pontons represent great value in the present market and parts are still decent on availability and prices. One of these cars, as a 4-door, that is a runner should not need much more than any other car as far as maintenance.
On a non-running Benz you can almost always expect to pay more to buy it and get it sorted than you you would have if you bought a better car to begin with that you can enjoy right away.
I'd say start by checking Auto Trader and Craigslist near you to begin to get an idea of what's out there, price and condition. Go to an all brands car show and see the cars in person and let the owner know you are looking for one, heck tell everyone there that you meet, somebody will know someone who has an old Benz for sale or they will at least give you tips on each car type and what to avoid. Reach out to the local MB Club and attend a show event as a visitor or to inquire about local cars for sale. Most will have a newsletter or facebook page with these cars but some MB folks tend to think their cars are worth more than they are (as you perhaps discovered) so prices may not reflect reality in all cases, but you will gain knowledge. Some German car mechanics even have cars their customers surrendered that they sell after fixing up if the cost was too much for the owner.

[TnBob]

Just me but I sure wouldnt head to a subaru either.
Unless you have to have a new one now... take a couple
of weeks. Finding mine took almost a month.

[Prospector]

Thanks for the additional info guys. The hunt goes on. I know this isn't peak season for sellers, and my old truck is still running so its not an emergency (yet).

Marrs - I am familiar with the idea that you are going to have a $5,000 car whether you pay it up front or in repairs. I'd just rather not buy a $500 car and put $7,500 into it to end up with a $5,000 car. Good idea to put out feelers. I guess I should find local clubs.

[Idle]

In the long run a Mercedes 240D of that run is the cheapest car to own and operate, but insurance runs higher. Check that out with your insurance guy before you buy.

Even if all you get is the bare minimum the cost is higher because the Mercedes is going to punch a bigger hole into anything you hit and cause more damage.

[83w126]

$5k for those cars is crazy, for $1200 for the pair sure, or just keep looking for a better one. It seems like most mechanics who don't specialize in any certain make of cars hate Mercedes, but having worked on the one I have I don't think they are bad at all.

[cth350]

price is a function of condition and cosmetic condition is more important than mechanical, especially on the convertible. Is it pretty? Is there any underside rust at all?

A 75 450SL has D-jet fuel injection. Your mechanic is wise to not get involved with it as it's going to eat you alive to pay the bill for him to work on it. If you are willing to do your own work on the fuel injection, vacuum AND ignition system, then it's a good car to sink your teeth into. But if it's got underside rust, then you've got a problem.

Parts car convertibles are about a grand. Start with that price, since that's whats going to happen to that car if the FI system isn't operational. The seller can't get it running, so it's not like he's got a prize on his hands.

-CTH

[Marrs]

Originally Posted by Prospector

I'd just rather not buy a $500 car and put $7,500 into it to end up with a $5,000 car.

I wish I could remember who said this and on what forum but an owner stated a (I'm very loosely paraphrasing), "I spent $80,000 so far to get the best $30,000 car money can buy."

Idle: I have always found insurance to be incredibly cheap on any older MB, and I mean standard insurance not collector car which is far cheaper. I pay $75 a month for full coverage with slightly lower deductible and slightly higher coverage than I had on my previous W202, and I know some collector insurance is about $200-300 a year for some folks as a second, mileage restricted car. Always prudent to shop around if you're paying too much.

[Prospector]

Mares - you insurance experience is very close to what I was quoted. My current daily driver is a mid-90's suburban. The ins. broker said any car over about 15 years old will insure about the same. A third car is a killer if insured as a daily driver, but only because there is a teen in the house. If the third car is insured as a seasonal classic, then it would cost $125/year in insurance.

[Prospector]

Thanks for the advice here - I decided to pass on this deal and got another car instead. I'll start a new thread since I now have a bunch-o-questions with my new old car...