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  #1  
Old 04-29-2002, 10:15 PM
BMWJoe
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Question Restoration of a 220

HEY, im new to this board but i know the use of these forums, ive been on another one for several years. I hope to learn a ton from you guys.

Well, my Grandparents gave me a 1972 Mercedes 220. The car is an automatic, gas, with 152k on it. Its been parked for the last 12 years [in a garage] and needs some major work. The bodys in great shape, one spot of rust above the passenger side headlight. Interior is practically mint, headliner needs replaced, but the seats have no wear, even though they need broken in again. Under the hood is another question... My dad rebuilt the engine a long time ago, so he claims it is in perfect mechanical shape, but the wiring is gone. Ive called around to several sources to find out how much a new harness would be, and its just not enought to save the car. So my plan is to tow it back to my house, a whole 5 miles away, and rebuild the entire wiring of the car.

Now that thats out of the way... Anyone know what else i should look for? What other things may need replaced? How much is it going to cost me to do all this work? And will it pay off in the long run? I need to park my Bimmer [84 318] so i can rebuild it into a track car, this way i will have a daily driver and fun on the weekends.

Thanks Joe

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Old 04-29-2002, 10:53 PM
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Most of the rubber will probably need to be replaced. Hopefully any fuel left sitting in it hasn't turned to a sticky goo yet.

Having only read about such restorations I can't be sure but it sounds like you'll be working on it for a while. If you can't fix it yourself you'll easily spend more at a shop getting it to work than it would cost to get the same car in running and great condition in the first place.
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Old 04-29-2002, 10:58 PM
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I've been reviving a 1972 220 for a neighbor
which was stored in a garage for 18 years.
This is what I had to do so far -
Replaced the fried voltage regulator after the owner attempted to connect the battery backwards.
Pulled valve cover to get pry bar under chain tensioner and got engine to crank long enough to get oil to the collapsed timing chain tensioner.
Replaced cracked carb isolator gasket assy. Repaired the cold start system, replaced carb venturi diaphragm and oil reservoir.
Repaired some vacuum lines. New plugs.
Replaced fuel hoses and filter. Fresh gas.
Replaced seized alternator and waterpump.
Replaced neutral switch and shifter bushing. At this point, I was able to see if the engine/trans worked well enough to continue.
Replaced seized rear calipers and rotors.
Replaced all rubber brake lines.
Replaced trans fluid and filter, including drain converter. Changed oil and filter.
Replaced motor and trans mounts.
Owner replaced all the tires. The old ones were hopelessly flat spotted.
Car is now driving very well.
Next job - replacing the heater blower assy!

I found no significant problems with the wiring harness. Was yours hacked up or chewed by rodents?

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 04-29-2002, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark DiSilvestro
I've been reviving a 1972 220 for a neighbor
which was stored in a garage for 18 years.
This is what I had to do so far -

Car is now driving very well.
Next job - replacing the heater blower assy!

I found no significant problems with the wiring harness. Was yours hacked up or chewed by rodents?

Happy Motoring, Mark
So how long did it take to do all this?
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Old 04-29-2002, 11:15 PM
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I figure about 35 hours spread out over the past 5 months.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 04-29-2002, 11:18 PM
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....and figure another 8 to 10 hours to do the heater blower.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 04-30-2002, 11:23 AM
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Good luck on keeping the blower motor job to 10 hours. Mercedes built these and most cars as follows: First, position the blower motor. Second, build everything else out from there in all directions.

I removed as blower motor and plenum from a 1977 240D and it was an all-weekend job. Of course, it had AC as well. Does your car?
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Old 05-01-2002, 12:37 AM
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14 years ago, I did the heater blower on my 1972 250, so I know what I'm in for.
At the time, I cheerfully paid just under $200 from the MB Dealer for the part as I planned to never have to do mine again. I took it apart the first day and reassembled it the second.
Today I got the '72 220 blower for just under $400, (I was quoted as much as $550 from another supplier!) and yes the 220 and my 250 both have AC (but no freon).
And NO, I'm not going to hack open the firewall as some jokers have suggested!

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 05-01-2002, 07:37 PM
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building a new wire harness isn't very difficult job. The hard part is following the color codes. Anybody know a decent source for the 4 dozen or so separate coded wires used ?

At the very least, replace the big fat red wires that connect the battery, starter, alternator, fusebox, ignition switch and headlights.

The 114/115 body & chassis manual has both the schematics AND the harness layouts. If you don't have the book (or the CD), don't start.


Be sure to solder all connectors, rather than just splicing in crimps. The little metal pins and sockets are available, but not cheaply.

-CTH
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Old 05-01-2002, 11:14 PM
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Well, it took about 4 hours today and the new heater blower is in and most of the main heater box.(I hate all those little 'C' clips that hold the cases together!)
Hope to finish tomorrow.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 05-02-2002, 10:44 AM
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Mark, you want to move in next door to us? I could use a neighbor like you!
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Old 05-02-2002, 06:17 PM
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Well another 8 hours and I'm almost finished.
Todays session included repairing the instrument light rheostat and radio wiring as well as chasing down various clips, screws, washers,etc left off by previous 'mechanics'.
And let's just say there will be some financial consideration involved!

Happy Motoring, Mark

P.S. I did my own heater blower 14 years ago.
I hope I won't have to do this for another 14 years.

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