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  #1  
Old 03-01-2019, 08:40 PM
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Transplanting And Repairing Seat Nets

I want to install seat nets from a W123 into a W111 fintail. Where can I get the rivets to do so, and how do I install them? Also, where can I get suitable, durable, round bungee cord to fix the tops so they don't sag?


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Old 03-02-2019, 12:59 AM
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So far my own research has found that I can get 10' of new 1/4" weather and UV-resistant black shock cord for $8.95 and free shipping on Amazon. Apparently the metal clamps on the end of the bungee can be pried off and clamped onto the new cord. The rivets used appear to be aluminum tubular (hollow) rivets for use with 3/8" thick material. The hole size is yet to be determined. It seems a special punch is needed and hitting the rivet from the backside will secure it and then it can be flattened further to be completely flush.

While slack can be taken out of the top cord by shortening and stretching it, I like the idea of having them functional with new elastic because you KNOW someone is going to try to put things in them, and I think it's neat having vintage literature in there.
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2019, 07:28 AM
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Use an aluminum drive rivet. A standard ball peen hammer will set the rivet. No need for a fancy-shmancy tool. Support the back side of the board with a socket to get the best "set" when you install the rivet.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/aluminum-drive-rivets

I don't think you can get a pop rivet with a flange large enough to secure the clamps using a "standard" hand operated tool.You'd need a washer on the back of them anyway to prevent them from pulling through the board.

Fastenal might carry them. I've always found Fastenal to be "hit or miss" when it comes to rivets.

I get them from Mill Supply. If you just need a few then once you figure out the size, send me a PM, and if I have them, I'll mail some to you.
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Last edited by Mike D; 03-02-2019 at 08:07 AM. Reason: added some stuff
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  #4  
Old 03-04-2019, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Use an aluminum drive rivet. A standard ball peen hammer will set the rivet. No need for a fancy-shmancy tool. Support the back side of the board with a socket to get the best "set" when you install the rivet.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/aluminum-drive-rivets

I don't think you can get a pop rivet with a flange large enough to secure the clamps using a "standard" hand operated tool.You'd need a washer on the back of them anyway to prevent them from pulling through the board.

Fastenal might carry them. I've always found Fastenal to be "hit or miss" when it comes to rivets.

I get them from Mill Supply. If you just need a few then once you figure out the size, send me a PM, and if I have them, I'll mail some to you.
Hmmm, those look a little different that what was on there (they have a smooth head that flattens down and the backside needs to be completely flush-mounted or it won't allow the board to fit and slide into place--even the thickness of a washer might be too much).

After getting the rivets out, they appear to be compression rivets. Someone told me Ace Hardware has them, but they only had them in brass, so I'll have to order new steel or aluminum ones online (apparently the W123 the nets came off of had steel rivets, while the W109 used larger aluminum rivets).

The shock cord is actually 3/16", but you have to buy 50' of it instead of 10' to get the good Dacron stuff if you want black. I was able to get the metal ball clamps off the ends of the old bungee, but I had to burn them off and then pry up the teeth with a tiny screwdriver so they will accept the new cord.
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1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 347,000+ Miles
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  #5  
Old 03-04-2019, 06:09 PM
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I got the shock cord off a $6 Motocycle cargo net and had plenty left over to do my other W123's too.....

Please show us how this works out .
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  #6  
Old 03-11-2019, 01:49 AM
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I cut off the plated steel ball ends which were crimped onto the old bungee cord. I could not find replacements anywhere, so I decided they would have to be reused. I tried lifting the teeth but it was too difficult, so I ended up burning out the bungee cord with a torch while being careful to not damage the plating. Then after pounding out the ashes, I was able to pry up on the teeth with a small screwdriver. They should only be opened up just enough to get the new cord inside.


We got new heavy duty marine weather and UV-resistant Dacron bungee (or shock) cord from Sgt. Knots on Amazon. Unfortunately, we had to buy 50' of it because that's the shortest length the black 3/16" comes in. But, it was worth it. I think it will last longer than the original, and certainly longer than some cheap dollar store cord.


It looks similar to the original cord, but with a tighter weave.


The bungee cord is really what keeps the nets from sagging. The nets themselves are almost always good, but the cord loses its elasticity and stretches out. I wove the new cord through the nets and the eyelets of the frame.


After cutting the cord, I immediately burned the end with a lighter just enough so it prevented it from fraying and then while it was still hot I pressed it in with my fingers to minimalize flaring. Then I pressed the cord into the ball end, which I had soaked in Evapo-Rust and polished. I placed some vinyl underneath the ball end and closed the teeth around the cord by striking them with a screwdriver and hammer.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 347,000+ Miles
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:50 AM
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After getting the teeth pressed down a bit, I pushed them in further with channel lock pliers covered in electrical tape to protect the metal surface.


After that, I tapped down the teeth again with a screwdriver and hammer until they were properly secured.


Then I went onto the other side of the net, which was more difficult because I had to stretch the cord over since I cut it short so it would end up taught. It wasn't very difficult with the net off of the seat back, but with it in place it would probably be very challenging or impossible. I found that once the cord was somewhat secure in the ball end, I was able to tap down the teeth through the eyelet with a screwdriver.


I was having a difficult time finding rivets like what came from the nets. The W123 seat nets have smaller clamps and rivets than the W108/W109/W110/W111/W112 seat nets--which rivets would likely be easier to find. I finally found that TierraCast makes 6mm rivets for arts and crafts--which look identical to the originals, only they are silver plated brass instead of nickle plated steel.


The post goes in through the back side and sticks out the top. The TierraCast rivets were barely long enough to work. We put cotton padding under the new MB-tex vinyl, which probably made setting the rivets more difficult.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 347,000+ Miles
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  #8  
Old 03-11-2019, 01:50 AM
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The cap went on top and then I used a concave TierraCast 6mm rivet setting punch and had to hit it hard several times before the rivet halves would stay together.


After this I used some heavy washers and a small C-clamp and cranked down hard until the rivets were compressed good and tight.


And then for extra security, I used large channel lock pliers to really squish them down.


They came out looking flat just like the originals and should be secure.


The backside is flush-mounted so the rivets won't interfere with sliding into the back of the seat.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 347,000+ Miles
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  #9  
Old 03-11-2019, 01:51 AM
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An old seat back panel is pictured on the left--it has a sagging pocket and holes where headrest brackets used to be. The panel on the right is the newly made one from 1/8" masonite board, covered in 701 Black MB-Tex from GAHH, with a seat net from a 1980s W123, which is almost identical to the scarce W108/W109/W110/W111/W112 net--it is only just slightly narrower.


The pair of newly-made seat back panels with refurbished nets.


The seat panels in place! They are such an improvement and a worthwhile upgrade. The bottom middle seat net clamp coincides with the screw which secures the panel to the seat back, so a rivet is not needed for this one.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 347,000+ Miles
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  #10  
Old 03-11-2019, 08:19 AM
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Well done!
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  #11  
Old 04-14-2019, 10:24 PM
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Nice. I was working on mine a while back. I'd like to buy some of that extra bungee cord from you.

BTW: the rivets for the 108 nets are available from MB
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2019, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knapster View Post
Nice. I was working on mine a while back. I'd like to buy some of that extra bungee cord from you.

BTW: the rivets for the 108 nets are available from MB
Wow, no kidding? That's good to know.

Do you need just enough bungee to do one set of two seat nets? It takes roughly 1 1/2' per net, but you want a little extra to work with, so I think 4' would be good for a set of two.

I think $0.40 per foot would be fine. So that would be $1.60 plus whatever it costs to mail it in an envelope. If you want more or less than this, that's fine.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 347,000+ Miles
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  #13  
Old 04-17-2019, 10:20 PM
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not a perfect fix but used it on my 280sel and it looked great.

https://**************.com/problems/interior/sagging-front-seat-back-net-map-pocket

https://**************.com/problems/interior/sagging-front-seat-back-net-map-pocket
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