Removing instrument cluster on W115

[j-galap]

I want to replace a couple of the LEDs in my instrument cluster (1974 240D) am having trouble getting the cluster itself out.

I was watching this video yesterday which suggests that the cluster literally just pulls out. I've pulled the cluster out so far, but it now feels like there's something solid stopping it from coming out any further. It feels like it's at the bottom of the cluster in the middle.

Any ideas? It moves freely so far and then stops. I want to of course avoid damaging anything by forcing it out!

Thanks

[fonzi]

There’s a filament that’s apparently controls the gear selector on column shift models that can break very easily.

[j-galap]

It's an auto shift (on the console, not column shift) though. Must be something else

[Mike D]

Undo the speedometer clamp on the firewall down towards the accelerator pedal. This will allow the cable some slack and gives you room to reach behind the cluster to undo the cable at the speedo head.

Don't forget about the oil pressure line. The rheostat can also hit on the bottom of the binnacle. After the speedo cable, power plug and oil line are removed, tilt the top of the cluster towards you and lift in an upwards and forwards (towards the steering wheel) direction.

[j-galap]

Thanks Mike!

[Usaguy]

Originally Posted by Mike D

Don't forget about the oil pressure line.

And remember not to start the engine

[Mike D]

Spoil sport!

[Idle]

When you are pulling these out you need to deal with at least three things: The speedo cable, the wiring connection and the oil pressure line.

The cluster can be pulled out far enough to see the wiring plug. I just use a thin flat blade screwdriver to pry it gently off. Then the cluster will give a little.

Then take a pair of pliers and reach in there and unscrew the speedo cable. It will unscrew like any other bolt; counter-clockwise.

Then you can reach the oil pressure line. This will take a small, about 8 mm or so open end wrench to disconnect. Careful here, you will get some oil dripping out. So have a few rags handy to stuff under the line to catch the drops.

On the earlier cars you also have to remove the temp gauge connection, which means removing the temp gauge from the cluster. This can be done but it is best to unscrew the bulb from the engine and push the thermocline into the car's interior a bit to give you more room to work with.

But you will not need to do this on a 1974 since they used an electric temp gauge.

The tough part when putting it back in is the hooking up of the speedo cable. It can be done, just budget some extra time to do so as it is a slow process.

I don't disconnect the speedo cable from the floor because it is too difficult for me to bend over and get under there.

[Mike D]

Good catch on the temperature gauge. I've been working on M110 powered vehicles for too long.

For just bulb replacement you shouldn't have to remove the gauge. There's enough slack in the tubing to access the bulbs.

Keep track of the optical filaments. They have a bad habit of falling and getting lost beneath the wiring looms.

When replacing the speedo cable to the cluster make sure it is threaded properly. Hand tighten only! It sometimes takes two or three tries to get right. It should feed easily until snug. If it doesn't then you don't have it straight.

[ghetto jet]

Great info in this thread, I believe an issue with my clock is blowing a fuse on my 76. I attempted to pull the cluster. But I was having the same issue having read about how "they just pull out" and seemed like something would break if I kept pulling.

[cleeves]

I've had mine out so many times for fixing odo gears and replacing bulbs that I can get it all disconnected and reconnected in a matter of about 10 minutes!

Henry

[Orango]

Had the same problem.

There’s a little tab on the bottom left centre that sticks out about half an inch. It’s part of the dimmer switch. Mine got bent when I pulled it out but was no big deal.

[j-galap]

Other things came up so I never got around to finishing this job in the end. Still having some trouble though.

This is as far as I can get the cluster out before it feels like I'll need to force it:


Not sure if I'm doing something wrong here? Trying to take it out from the top first. It moves freely until this point, but after that it doesn't want to budge. I of course don't want to break anything!

Any thoughts? Thanks

[Mike D]

The rubber gasket might be sticking. Try running a thin feeler gauge (0.008"- 0.010") around the perimeter of the instrument cluster to ensure it is loose.

[j-galap]

Had some time today so finally got the cluster out (which wasn't too difficult once I'd got it at the right angle!)

A couple of questions.

The glass on the inside of the left dial is marked up/dirty for some reason. Looks like it's been resealed before so I guess dust got in. Is it particularly difficult to take the whole thing apart from the back to get the glass out? I'd love to polish it up!

Pic:


Secondly, there's something (see photo) that's been electrical taped up on the back of the cluster. Any ideas what it is/why it's been taped up? Nothing was plugged into it!



Thanks