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  #1  
Old 11-05-2003, 03:06 AM
Cazzzidy
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Where do I get paint?

Hey guys,

I am interested in painting my Datsun 510 with DB-180. For those not in the know, this is the silver-gray metallic paint used by Mercedes on the 300SL. Every one loves a silver gullwing.

I want to bring some Mercedes history to my Datsun restoration project... I think she deserves it. After all, Datsun copied the Mercedes OHC motor design meticulously for the stock 510 L16 motor.

Anywho... what paint suppliers/brands would you recommend for this paint. I plan to do it myself, so Ure might be out of the question.

Thanks, Cassidy.

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  #2  
Old 11-05-2003, 12:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: keene n.h.
Posts: 50
paint ?

paint is one of those things that you really get what you pay for you can go with a single-stage that is you mix it and spray it and thats what you get and in fact if you find a good a-body shop they will usually have someone on staff that can spray it well its the most cost effictive way to go or you can go with a two-stage system which is when you spray the color down and then clear caot over it more money but alot more options clears have a range in price from 50.- a gal. to 200.- gal evn the less expensive clears do a pretty nice job the other plus is that if there is an imperfection in it you can wet-sand and buff it [the more costly clears do better with that] they very resistant to scracthing to and do not fade form UV like single stages do . if you go single stage dupont's centari is prettygood alittle pricey i think your best bet is to use ''R&M DIMONT'' BASE AND CLEAR you should be able to do the car in base color with 2 qt.s @appx. 45.- per qt. you would also need a gal. of reducer [thinner] you can buy the clear by the qt. too a car that size you'll need about 1 1/2 qt.s of clear [this stuff is very user friendly you can wet sand and buff the next day you can NOT wait more than a day to do this because the stuff will get so hard it won't buff well if you reallymess it up wait one day sand it and repaint last you'll need a hardener [catylast] to make the clear set-up there are 2 or 3 to use depending onthe condisions you are painting in the whole thing could run you about 250- in materials for the paint single stage 150- i've been painting cars for along time the r&m systemis the best bang for the buck you will be very happy with the results
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  #3  
Old 11-06-2003, 08:20 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Most automotive paint suppliers (check the Yellow Pages) can get you Glasurit paint, but be prepared for the cost ($$$$). If that is too much, you can use good automotive enamel, there are several suppliers (my brother uses Dupont Delstar), PPG makes fine paints, etc. Make SURE the place knows you are painting over MB factory paint from the 70's, not all reducers or paints will be compatible, and can cause severe checking. Do not, under any circumstances, use laquer, it will litterally pull the paint off the metal (that's what is happening to the 280). Crazes and then cracks through the factory e-coat and primer, too, to expose bare metal, which rusts....

Use a good primer coat between the original paint and what you are putting on, again, make sure it's compatible.

Expect Glasurit to be about $350 for the car, others are less.

Peter

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1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
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