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#1
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Does anyone have any advise as to how to remove a thermostat from a W108 280SE with Air Conditioning? The bracket are right in the way of the thermostat housing.
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#2
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Try coming at it from below.
On my 4.5 I found that it was very easy to get at the lower and rear bolts from below. The manual calls for removing the alternator on the 4.5 as it is in the way. Might be the same sort of situation on yours.
Pretty easy using a 1/4" drive rachet and a 4" extension. Just be sure to have a flashlight handy (if working in the garage) to help see into the darker recesses.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#3
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I replaced a tensioner seal on a carbureted car many years ago and the compressor and bracket had to be removed. As I recall, you need to remove the compressor, then the bracket. It was mainly a greasy job, but not particularly difficult.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#4
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Thanks for the quick feedback. I guess I will have to pull the AC out.
Have a good Memorial Day Weekend. |
#5
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For the straight 6 motor, the top of the thermostat housing is all you have to remove. It's accessable.
Also, if the replacement has a check valve, be sure that it is "up", at the highest point that it can be at. -CTH |
#6
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CTH,
I agree it should be a simple as removing the housing but I can not get at the housing with the AC Compressor there. I thought there might be a trick to it (special tooling or moving the fuel rails). I wish it was that easy. |
#7
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you're right. I just checked the 280se engine that's in the garage. Those fuel lines block the two inner bolts. I would say that a socket+universal might do the trick. I don't have one at 10mm. You can try to morph a normal 10mm box end into a zig-zag (heat it REAL hot and bend it in a vise while wearing eye protection).
-CTH |
#8
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CTH,
Thanks again for your feedback. I am also going to test the vacuum issues that you replied to also. Have a good one! |
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