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#31
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Holly crap
I didn’t expect so many posts. It was dark out by the time I got home with some stuff that claims to eat rust and free surface tension from the auto parts store. I pounded it with a rubber mallet a few times and decided to come back and check the forum for updates. Hopefully it will come off soon or I will have to figure out a way to convert it into a 3 wheeler. |
#32
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brabus -- don't sweat it. I worked for probably 30 minutes to get the wheels off my 190E, and I have probably changed 100 sets of wheels in the past few years! They had seized to the rotors, and, for that matter, most of the lug bolts were seized. I had to come up with a ~4' cheater bar to get them loose!
Buy yourself some of the Permatex anti-seize. I used that when replacing my wheels and follow-up jobs have gone MUCH smoother. I put anti-seize on the bolts AND on the contact surfaces of the wheel and hub. We use that Permatex stuff for aircraft wheel and tire buildup in the Air Guard, so I don't figure it can do my Benz any harm. I also use it on my Mustang's lug nuts. Chris
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1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's) |
#33
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That stuff actually worked. Generally products with the “AS SEEN ON TV” logo on it are items I stay away from, but it was all they had.
BTW anyone have the torque specs for that hub/axle bolt I unscrewed? |
#34
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Quote:
__________________
1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's) |
#35
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Yes that was the stuff
It was very impressive after spraying it and having some breakfast it had done its job. After the second whack the wheel fell right off. Not bad considering I had 20+ min of pounding it with no results before spraying it. |
#36
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Good!
Glad to hear you got her off. Sorry, I can't help help the torqure specs......
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-Randy Wakefield 1969 220D 4 speed (parts car) 1976 280C 1976 280S 1981 240D 4 speed (parts car) 1982 300D 1983 300TD (Ivory) 1983 300TD (gold) 1985 300TD (gray) 1987 190D 2.5 1970 280SEL (sold) 1977 240D 4 speed (sold) 1974 280 (rusted to death) --- 1927 Chevy 4 door sedan 1938 Chevy 2 door sedan 1950 Willys Jeepster 1955 Studebaker President 4 door 1977 Ford F250 1979 Glastron 17' 1948 John Deere A 1960 John Deere 2010 1979 Satoh S650G -- 2000 Bichon (Doby) |
#37
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Quote:
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#38
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not to be a wise guy, but.....
I still wanna know how someone gets killed changing a tire.
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) |
#39
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#40
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Or the car falls on him.................
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#41
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One problem I have seen repreatedly on cars is where a stamped steel spare is put in place of an alloy roadwheel.
The stamped wheel takes shorter lug bolts and when the longer bolts (for the alloy wheels) are used, they penetrate the parking brake mechanism. When you set the vehicle in motion, the parking brake system is destroyed. If you have alloy wheels and a steel spare, put the correct lug bolts in a ziploc bag (along with a pair of rubber gloves) atop the spare tire for those roadside emergencies. Hope this is helpful...Bert |
#42
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Quote:
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
#43
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Changing a Tire , What Danger??
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#44
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I knew if there wasn’t something special with this wheel that many wise cracks were going to follow my question. The only reason I even questioned it just being rusted on was my resent rotor replacement (front). Typically you just unbolt the wheel remove the caliper and take slide the rotor off. With this car there was a whole list of to dos. Every day I work on this car it seems like I run across some sort of strange engineering that I have never seen before.
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#45
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Quote:
Anybody know about them? I don't other than I read in the Haynes manual that they excisted! |
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