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Old 03-05-2006, 02:15 PM
GregZ GregZ is offline
Fixin' anything moving
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 247
I see your point.
Here are some remarks:
- The car had less than 100k miles in it when the timing chain (those cursed one-row chains) broke. The car was standing still for about 2.5 years at this guy I bought the car from. This obviously explains the sticky valve and the destroyed o-rings. The manifold gasket inside the distributor is in great condition - it is just the o-rings that do not bring it anymore. (nothing inside has wear marks either) - so I figured if I clean it - do not touch the flow control bolts (the allen bolts behind the allen bolts (as those o-rings seem to be intact)) but replace the rest of the seals then I should not modify any of the flow characteristics. I have found some places on the net that do offer a flow adjustment if you send in your fuel distributor.
I have a hard time buying a used one as it may have problems soon. I have a hard time buying a new and/or rebuilt one as I did not pay much more for the entire car . This was supposed to be a fun project - but now it is getting deep into my pockets. I measured the o-rings inside and now I will try to find fuel-resistant o-rings in those sizes.

If I understand you correctly, the only right way to adjust the fuel distributor is to adjust with its corresponding injectors - right?

Thanks!

Greg

Thanks all,

Greg
__________________
1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)
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