Quote:
Originally Posted by 80300dbenz
On my 1980 300D the door locks stoped working and i decided to test all the lines on the driver side floor and fron pass. side floor. One red and green line goes across to the fron passenger side floor and when i was testing those it wouldnt hold vac. All the others did except for the one going to the trunk element to i took it out and blocked it. It now holds it but very slowly leaks when checking it. Is that ok? After all of the test I started pumping with the mity-vac on the door lock check valve and then started to unlock and lock the doors it worked only twice then i lost vac. Do I need to leave the car running to fill the vac tank in the trunk? What does this mean? And when I lock and unlock the master Vac switch makes a leaking sound. Is that whats leaking? How do I check that?
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80300dbenz - Have you tried to read the copy of my door lock diagram that is posted at:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforu...d.php?t=160169 ??
I'm sorry I'm not back home where I could get you a much clearer copy.
Soon I will have the higher resolution diaghram files available on-line!
Biodiesel300TD - On our 1980 300D I found the hard vacuum line that runs to the reservoir is yellow with a dark stripe down it. Pulling a vacuum on this line is very laborous using a hand vacuum pump so I installed a "T" at the start of this line in the engine compartment and after the engine/pump had drawn a vacuum on the reservoir, then I shut off the engine and watched the vacuum. It should hold stead without any noticeable drop and YES, if there is a drop, there is a very good chance it is at the rubber grommet on the side of the reservoir in the trunk where the same hard plastic line is stuck throught the grommet. On my diagram I have a note that you can use non-hardening silicone sealer on inside and outside of a leaking grommet... taking care not to get the sealer inside the hard line.
I agree, any hard and/or cracked rubber vacuum fittings should be replaced for I don't silicone is appropriate... however if they are old but still reasonably soft what I did was to place them in a zip-loc bag, spray them with Armerol (sp?) and let them soak overnight. And one other technique I learned is to use the smaller plastic electrical tie binders and sinch them down tightly over the rubber fitting after the hard vacuum line is in place. Use pliers and/or vice grips to do the sinching! Afterall these fitting can cost anywhere from $3 to $12 each depending upon where you purchase! In hard to access locations I recommend new fittings.
Got to run to a Family REunion!
Sam