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#1
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door lock vac line test
On my 1980 300D the door locks stoped working and i decided to test all the lines on the driver side floor and fron pass. side floor. One red and green line goes across to the fron passenger side floor and when i was testing those it wouldnt hold vac. All the others did except for the one going to the trunk element to i took it out and blocked it. It now holds it but very slowly leaks when checking it. Is that ok? After all of the test I started pumping with the mity-vac on the door lock check valve and then started to unlock and lock the doors it worked only twice then i lost vac. Do I need to leave the car running to fill the vac tank in the trunk? What does this mean? And when I lock and unlock the master Vac switch makes a leaking sound. Is that whats leaking? How do I check that?
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#2
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The master switch is supposed to "vent" the vacuum when you lock/unlock the doors, so that sound is normal. You system is made up of a lock circuit (yellow/red lines) and an unlock circuit (yellow/green lines). There is a separate line (yellow/blue, I think) that runs from the check valve to the tank in the trunk. When you lock the doors, the unlock circuit vents through the master switch, and vice versa.
If you run the car for a couple of minutes it will pull a vacuum in the tank. How many times will the doors lock/unlock after the engine is shut off? Will the doors unlock/lock after the car has been sitting overnight? It's possible you have another small leak(s) someplace. |
#3
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i have a 76 300d (115 chassis) and the only vacuum related component that works is the fuel door lock (only if you lock the car right after shutting engine off) which leads me to believe i have a HUGE leak somehwhere, and the car is not holding vacuum. door locks nor trunk lock via master lock system works- i want to get this fixed, but im having trouble pinpointing where the leak would be at. i can definaitly hear a small vacuum whoosh from the drivers side door though.
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__________________________ 76 300D 108,110 miles 99 Saturn sl1 80,000 miles - moms 91 Grand Marquis 45,000 miles - Grandparents 97 Ford F150 - 16,000 miles - Grandparents 73 Ford Monarch (parked 65,000 miles - Grandparents |
#4
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My guess is...
Quote:
which I put together after working on my Son's 1980 300D... and if you want a clearer copy, PM me with your regular e-mail address. I think that the GREEN is for the " Lock " circuit and the RED is for the " UnLock " circuit... and I think you will find the the fuel door is on the same " Lock " circuit with the trunk... and the fuel door does not have an UnLock connection. So my fast-and-dirty e-mail diagnostic "GUESS" is that you should check out the fuel door vacuum element. Sam |
#5
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80300dbenz,
Sounds like maybe you have a leaky reservior. There should be another line in the engine bay that goes to the reservior. Mine is brown I believe. Pull vac on that and see if it holds. You may have a bad connector on the line that goes into the reservior. If that doesn't hold, find the connector and plug it and then pull vac again. Or just replace it. I would replace all of the connectors. They are a huge source of vac leak, and they are 25 years old.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#6
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Quote:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforu...d.php?t=160169 ?? I'm sorry I'm not back home where I could get you a much clearer copy. Soon I will have the higher resolution diaghram files available on-line! Biodiesel300TD - On our 1980 300D I found the hard vacuum line that runs to the reservoir is yellow with a dark stripe down it. Pulling a vacuum on this line is very laborous using a hand vacuum pump so I installed a "T" at the start of this line in the engine compartment and after the engine/pump had drawn a vacuum on the reservoir, then I shut off the engine and watched the vacuum. It should hold stead without any noticeable drop and YES, if there is a drop, there is a very good chance it is at the rubber grommet on the side of the reservoir in the trunk where the same hard plastic line is stuck throught the grommet. On my diagram I have a note that you can use non-hardening silicone sealer on inside and outside of a leaking grommet... taking care not to get the sealer inside the hard line. I agree, any hard and/or cracked rubber vacuum fittings should be replaced for I don't silicone is appropriate... however if they are old but still reasonably soft what I did was to place them in a zip-loc bag, spray them with Armerol (sp?) and let them soak overnight. And one other technique I learned is to use the smaller plastic electrical tie binders and sinch them down tightly over the rubber fitting after the hard vacuum line is in place. Use pliers and/or vice grips to do the sinching! Afterall these fitting can cost anywhere from $3 to $12 each depending upon where you purchase! In hard to access locations I recommend new fittings. Got to run to a Family REunion! Sam |
#7
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Normally it's the other way around.
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