It's good to know I'm not alone in the world. I did the same thing with a 300SDL a month ago.

If you're in the South Bay, the Diesel guy with the highest recommendation is Patrick Tan at Mercedes Select Service in Milpitas. I had to wait 3 weeks for him to check the SDL. There's a shop or 2 in Campbell that are also recommended. Then of course there's Smythe.

If you're not familiar with the 300SD, it's a fabulously simple and reliable machine.

What to check, let's see...

- door locks -- it doesn't use engine vacuum like older models. It's pretty easy to diagnose problems

- windows -- problems usually involve dirty switch contacts and broken sliders. I'm becoming an expert on rear window sliders

- ACC -- the vacuum actuators fail and cause air flow from unintended registers. Takes some acrobatics to diagnose but not the most difficult thing in the world. AC specifically is not something I know much about

- water in the trunk -- not a problem this time of year. Usually occurs when the rear weatherstip ages. If you're lucky, it'll just be tail light seals.

- suspension -- shocks are easy to replace and don't cost all that much. The numerous bushings in the front and rear make all the difference in ride, handling and stability. Most require brute force and a colorful vocabulary or $1000 front and $1000 rear to replace. Ball joints require special tools to install, but you can bring the control arms to a shop leaving only the specialized task to professionals

- steering -- if the steering wheel has a lot of play, the steering box can be adjusted. But first make sure the tie rods and idler arm bushings are in good shape

- shifting -- violent shifts are usually caused by a disconnected vacuum line to the transmission. If the engine revs between shifts (flares), the modulator can be adjusted as a short term fix but you're probably looking at more involved remedies in this lifetime

- starting -- the glow light should come on for a couple of seconds then turn off indicating that the engine is ready to start. If it doesn't come on, stays on or flashes, it usually means you need new glow plugs. The glow plug relay rarely goes bad. Mine might be the only one that ever went bad

- engine performance -- this is not a slug; it should be able to get out of its own way. There is a boost signal that goes through a protection switch and to the injection pump. The line accumulates dirt and hampers the boost signal. It's a simple matter to clean this line and restore the power you deserve

- valve adjustment -- should be checked and adjusted as necessary every 15K miles

- timing chain stretch -- should be checked whenever you have the valve cover off... usually when you check valve adjustment. You can eyeball stretch using the tick marks or take closer measurements using precision instruments. The eyeball method is close enough since you shouldn't put off replacing the chain once you notice a certain amount of stretch

- fuel filters -- change both once a year. Consider running a fuel system cleaner like Lubromoly Diesel Purge when you replace the filters

- water pump -- there's a weep hole you can inspect to see how its holding up

- radiator -- might have plastic necks. Treat them gently and look for the formation of cracks. More of a problem up top

- bouncing tach -- search the archives for cigarette butt

This is the tip of the iceberg in terms of things to check. I'm sure folks will present other suggestions, possibilities and priorities.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
81 300SD