This is a bit embarrasing; I've been looking for MB diesels lately, and been scanning the e-bay auctions in particular. I've even bid on a couple of cars when I thought the price was right. Well, the inevitable happened, and I just won an auction, '83 300SD with 367,000 miles for $2550. Looks to be in VG-E condition interior and exterior. Claims to drive well, needs AC work. This should cure me of the urge to impulsively bid. Now that I've bought the car, what should I be looking for (I know, wrong order). I'll be searching the archives pretty extensively, but a quick list would be helpful.

I had my eye on that car. No AC scared me away.

Start with a PPI (post in this case) so you know where you stand. I believe Kruse gives you a couple of days to identify misrepresentations so you still have a way out of the deal.

I hope it works out for you.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
81 300SD

Thanks, Sixto. Any suggestions on independents in the area for the PPI, or just go with a local dealer?

I bought this as a project car, so I'm not that worried - the body and interior appear to be in very good shape and the price isn't too high. I just want to know how much of a project it's going to be.

It's good to know I'm not alone in the world. I did the same thing with a 300SDL a month ago.

If you're in the South Bay, the Diesel guy with the highest recommendation is Patrick Tan at Mercedes Select Service in Milpitas. I had to wait 3 weeks for him to check the SDL. There's a shop or 2 in Campbell that are also recommended. Then of course there's Smythe.

If you're not familiar with the 300SD, it's a fabulously simple and reliable machine.

What to check, let's see...

- door locks -- it doesn't use engine vacuum like older models. It's pretty easy to diagnose problems

- windows -- problems usually involve dirty switch contacts and broken sliders. I'm becoming an expert on rear window sliders

- ACC -- the vacuum actuators fail and cause air flow from unintended registers. Takes some acrobatics to diagnose but not the most difficult thing in the world. AC specifically is not something I know much about

- water in the trunk -- not a problem this time of year. Usually occurs when the rear weatherstip ages. If you're lucky, it'll just be tail light seals.

- suspension -- shocks are easy to replace and don't cost all that much. The numerous bushings in the front and rear make all the difference in ride, handling and stability. Most require brute force and a colorful vocabulary or $1000 front and $1000 rear to replace. Ball joints require special tools to install, but you can bring the control arms to a shop leaving only the specialized task to professionals

- steering -- if the steering wheel has a lot of play, the steering box can be adjusted. But first make sure the tie rods and idler arm bushings are in good shape

- shifting -- violent shifts are usually caused by a disconnected vacuum line to the transmission. If the engine revs between shifts (flares), the modulator can be adjusted as a short term fix but you're probably looking at more involved remedies in this lifetime

- starting -- the glow light should come on for a couple of seconds then turn off indicating that the engine is ready to start. If it doesn't come on, stays on or flashes, it usually means you need new glow plugs. The glow plug relay rarely goes bad. Mine might be the only one that ever went bad

- engine performance -- this is not a slug; it should be able to get out of its own way. There is a boost signal that goes through a protection switch and to the injection pump. The line accumulates dirt and hampers the boost signal. It's a simple matter to clean this line and restore the power you deserve

- valve adjustment -- should be checked and adjusted as necessary every 15K miles

- timing chain stretch -- should be checked whenever you have the valve cover off... usually when you check valve adjustment. You can eyeball stretch using the tick marks or take closer measurements using precision instruments. The eyeball method is close enough since you shouldn't put off replacing the chain once you notice a certain amount of stretch

- fuel filters -- change both once a year. Consider running a fuel system cleaner like Lubromoly Diesel Purge when you replace the filters

- water pump -- there's a weep hole you can inspect to see how its holding up

- radiator -- might have plastic necks. Treat them gently and look for the formation of cracks. More of a problem up top

- bouncing tach -- search the archives for cigarette butt

This is the tip of the iceberg in terms of things to check. I'm sure folks will present other suggestions, possibilities and priorities.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
81 300SD

Excellent list, Sixto, thanks. Based on positive feedback on the Good MB Shops forum, I'm having ******** Los Gatos do a PPI on Monday. Since Kruse really didn't make any representations, it's unlikely I can (or would want to) invalidate it based on misreps; this is more for my peace of mind since I want to drive the car to LA on Wednesday and then to Utah on Sunday. The PPI should give me a starting list of things to be done, as well as some independent assurance that the car will make it in its present shape.

The nice thing about buying a High Miler like your SD is that the PO or PO's probably did many of the high dollar items like major front end work or a timing chain. Of course you need to check all those items again but chances are good that at least some of the major stuff has been done. Hey, it made it over 300,000 so they must have done something right!

__________________
Orland Park, IL
1985 300SD 215,000 miles

Happy/Sad ending, depending on your perspective. I had ******** Los Gatos do the PPI, they came back with a preliminary estimate of $2100, primarily to redo the front suspension, install new rear rotors/pads, motor mounts, rear flex disc. Breakdown was $1400+ labor (at $96/hr), $600+ parts. ACC is shot, and contrary to seller assertion, a new push panel didn't fix it (they tested with one). So, unknown $$$ for ACC on top of the amount above. Timing chain was tight, but compression very low in one cylinder. Possible that valve adjust would fix that, very possible it won't, in which case more $$$$$.

End result, I left a message for Kruse that I didn't want it, and wanted the deposit back; I don't think I'll have any trouble with them on this one. Total cost, $144 for PPI. Not a bad education for playing on e-bay - but I still need to find a car...

Thanks again to Sixto for the solid advice.