1) Think about whether you are going to remove the bonnet / hood or not. I guess you could put the bonnet in its vertical position and get the engine out. However, as I'm working outside, one gust of wind could have really ruined my day so I opted to remove it. If you are doing this you need to make a nice safe place for your bonnet / hood before you start!
2) Get a decent engine crane. I bought a 2 ton model and used the 1 ton extension position with a load distributor. If you are going to hire or buy a 1 ton model – make sure that the point at which you connect the hook (the bit that will hold the engine's weight) is going to go far enough over the engine in your car. If you don't have this hook point more or less in the centre of gravity of the thing you are lifting the whole weight of the engine will swing to compensate! This is when you could do yourself or the car or the engine some damage.
If you don't go for something that is purpose made – make sure that the structure and the lifting gear you are using is capable of lifting the engine (and gearbox) together.
DO NOT OVERLOAD YOUR LIFTING EQUIPMENT – even if it will “only be for a few seconds”
3) Remember that when you lift the engine out of the car the front suspension will raise the front of the car. The cross member at the front of the car – the bit that holds the hood / bonnet catch – is likely to go up in the air by at least 6 inches. It is best to make sure you can lift the engine over this before you start. However, as you'll probably just end up guessing if it is going to be OK or not it is worthwhile remembering that if you don't have enough height in your lifting gear you can do the following things:-
● Let air out of the tyres
● Put the car on low axle stands and remove the front wheels
● Get different lifting gear!
It is best to consider these options before you have the engine dangling on your lift.
4) Consider whether you're going to need an engine stand or not.
5) If you're working outside consider getting a cheapo party tent that will protect you from the bright sun (if you're so lucky) or more likely the rain.
6) Although it might look a bit daft consider labelling each wire / hose / pipe that you are going to disconnect. This is advisable if you are not used to working on your car / this type of car. It is also pretty handy to take pictures of things as you go – then you'll know how to put them back. Experience has taught me that you nearly always end up putting stuff back together in a rush and the daftest most obvious label often helps when you're in a panic / tired / pissed off

Please note although I'm not going to cover the following way of doing things you could in principle remove the gear box first – dropping it from the engine under the car – and then lift the engine out. This isn't the easiest way of doing things but it could be done if for some reason you couldn't lift the engine and gearbox out together: Like when you haven't got lifting gear that is strong enough. I wouldn't recommend it as I think the chances of damaging the gearbox are greater – but I guess it could be done that way...

During my engine rebuild I've been busy weighing my engine and other related parts so I can post the weights you can expect to meet. I couldn't find this data and I still haven't found this data anywhere else – I've only come across guestimates.

Start the job by disconnecting the battery.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!