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Removing the big bits
To gain access I removed the air filter and the air filter housing (see photo). This works really well for a non-turbo OM617 – I guess it wouldn't help much if you had a turbo sitting underneath.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe:- Here I undid the bolts at the flange of the manifold (see photo). I then removed the exhaust and inlet manifolds. I did this because it makes it easier to reach the starter motor and the automatic gearbox inhibitor switch wiring. Along with the manifolds I removed the coolant pipes from the cabin heater system that run underneath. Again you only really need to disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe... but you do need to disconnect the cabin coolant pipes at either the bulkhead or the engine (see photo).
Remove the shroud around the cooling fan. Sorry I don't have pictures of this as I junked my cooling fan some time ago and installed an electric one instead. Anyway the shroud is held on with clips much like the radiator. I've made a photo of these radiator clips... so remove the radiator! (see photo).
You then need to unplug the alternator wiring (see photo).
You now have a choice. You could also opt to remove the alternator, cooling fan (mine was already gone), and the crankshaft pulley to gain some extra space at the front. I opted to do this as I was working by myself – I was working on the principle that the more space you have around your engine the less chance there is of something being scratched. Don't worry if you can't get your crankshaft pulley off though – it is positioned at the front of the engine and consequently can be stubborn to get off because of crud and rust. In my opinion it is worth giving it a go and if it doesn't come off, don't worry too much, and don't waste any more time on it. It will probably be easier to drill out Allen head bolts when the engine is out anyway (if you need to do it – see photo).
If you have air conditioning then – according to my Haynes manual – you need to disconnect pipes from the pump. If you have cruise control then you need to free that too. The same can be said of the self levelling suspension pump that is attached to the front of the cylinder head. According to my Haynes manual “all you need to do is” to remove the pump housing from the engine, BUT do not split the housing! Sorry I don't have these extras so I can't show you photos of those bits...
The last “big bits” to think about are under the car.
Whilst you have disconnected the exhaust pipe at the manifold, and possibly removed the manifolds too, you need to disconnect the front exhaust pipe support next to the gear box. I'm guessing there is a similar set up for a manual gear box – but it is where I say it is for an automatic! Support the front end of the exhaust pipe on some blocks or bricks (see photo). Depending on how the exhaust pipe is slung at the rear of the car it may even rest on the cross member under the engine (close to the engine shocks) but I think at this stage you should try and support it in as safe a position possible so it won't get busted whilst you are taking out the engine.
The final big bit is the flexible drive disc that mates the propeller shaft to the gearbox. You'll need 15mm spanners and a socket plus ratchet to undo the bolts. The nuts are 17mm. You'll also need a 46mm and a 41mm spanner to slacken off the monster nuts on the propshaft (see photo) so that you can get enough 'wiggle' on the flexible drive disc so you can pull it rearwards and away from the gearbox.
Last edited by Stretch; 12-12-2010 at 04:31 PM.
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