Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner
I'm with you on your view that the problem is fuel; the ignition suggestion was to eliminate that area.
Does the car have one fuel pump or two? If two, are both running?
The previous suggestion to check for fuel at the injectors (lines cracked) while simultaneously moving the fuel dist. plunger, was to ensure that fuel was moving through the metering slits and upper chambers. You might also try cracking the fuel lines at the FD. While all these checks are being done it is necessary (obvious!) to have the pump(s) running and if possible have a gauge connected to the upper fitting of the FD (system pressure). Bridging the pump power at the relay socket ensures that the pump runs while doing checks.
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The car has one fuel pump.
I have not tried moving the plunger while cranking with the fuel lines cracked.
I should probably read up on how the fuel distributor works a little better. I know it has a diaphragm, and the EHA regulates the pressure between the top and bottom. Do all the injectors just spray fuel continuously?
I did connect the gauge at the top of the fuel distributor and monitored pressure. It jumps up (75psi if i remember correctly?) as soon as I turn the key to on, then I hear the pump turn off and the pressure drops to around 20-25psi until i crank it (which then turns the pump back on to 75ish again.)
These figures are not exact as i was trying to monitor this tiny gauge from a distance haha. I like the idea of bridging the pins to force it to come on, then im not running in and out of the car. I have a little free time tomorrow, ill see what i can find.
Im assuming im doing something similar to this
M103 WOT flow test - YouTube
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner
To build fuel pressure remove the Fuel Pump Relay (FPR) and bridge sockets 7&8
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In one of his other videos he states to jump pins 15 and 87. Was there a change up here?