A through examination sequence indeed!
Have you tried starting with the EHA unplugged? That condition leaves the acctuator plate in the neutral position, i.e., neither enrichening nor leaning the mixture. There is a possibility that the system controller is sending a full lean (coasting shutoff) signal to the EHA. To build fuel pressure remove the Fuel Pump Relay (FPR) and bridge sockets 7&8 (the FPR contains a timer which shuts off the pump if the engine is not running).

I did. I unplugged the EHA while it was running and watched the duty cycle, it started to drop slowly : 50, 40, 30, then stopped at around 20. I dont remember if thats lean or rich. (this was when it was running)

At the momment i cant get it to start at all, EHA plugged in or unplugged.

It seems fair at this point to ask if you have confirmed that spark is present at the plugs? Remove a convenient spark plug, stick it back into its wire, and lay it on a grounded surface where you can see the gap. Is spark visible when cranking? If yes, confirm rotor phasing/timing. If no, begin the hunt with a continuity check of the flywheel trigger and its lead up to the ignition controller (EZL).

If you can confirm proper ignition function, repeat your check of fuel flow at the injectors (lines cracked), while pushing down on the airflow sensor plate (manually moving the fuel plunger).

I checked for nice constant spark back when i was stuck in the parking lot. But havent since. But since im not getting any fuel at all with the lines cracked (and tried with them comletely open not even connected to the injector). Flywheel trigger being the crank position sensor, i already checked its resistance. But that wouldnt block the fuel flow? I can check for spark the next time i have a chance.

I'm with you on your view that the problem is fuel; the ignition suggestion was to eliminate that area.

Does the car have one fuel pump or two? If two, are both running?

The previous suggestion to check for fuel at the injectors (lines cracked) while simultaneously moving the fuel dist. plunger, was to ensure that fuel was moving through the metering slits and upper chambers. You might also try cracking the fuel lines at the FD. While all these checks are being done it is necessary (obvious!) to have the pump(s) running and if possible have a gauge connected to the upper fitting of the FD (system pressure). Bridging the pump power at the relay socket ensures that the pump runs while doing checks.

The car has one fuel pump.

I have not tried moving the plunger while cranking with the fuel lines cracked.

I should probably read up on how the fuel distributor works a little better. I know it has a diaphragm, and the EHA regulates the pressure between the top and bottom. Do all the injectors just spray fuel continuously?

I did connect the gauge at the top of the fuel distributor and monitored pressure. It jumps up (75psi if i remember correctly?) as soon as I turn the key to on, then I hear the pump turn off and the pressure drops to around 20-25psi until i crank it (which then turns the pump back on to 75ish again.)

These figures are not exact as i was trying to monitor this tiny gauge from a distance haha. I like the idea of bridging the pins to force it to come on, then im not running in and out of the car. I have a little free time tomorrow, ill see what i can find.

Im assuming im doing something similar to this



M103 WOT flow test - YouTube



In one of his other videos he states to jump pins 15 and 87. Was there a change up here?

I wasnt aware this is how it worked

Bosch K-Jetronic (CIS) explained - YouTube


So , its 100% mechanical for what is stopping fuel from reaching the injectors if the fuel pump is running. I must of messed something with my air flow meter. Ill inspect tomorrow.


Question : The IACV is connected to two hoses. One hose goes back to the "air chamber" where the fuel metering valve is located. The other hose (the one i replaced) runs to the cold start valve. Where does this hole run to? Does it feed all the cylinders?