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Old 06-09-2013, 03:36 PM
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Diesel911 Diesel911 is online now
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drayday55 View Post
Great advice. Thank you. I may just purchase a complete motor out of a siezed or wrecked car. Its gonna cost $4000 dollars vs. 500 for a used motor. I may tear into this thing myself just as an expensive learning tool so I will be familiar with everything but im at least gonna try to time this correctly. I figured out how to drip time this thing no problem. I just cannot find any base timming marks . I need to buy a fsm. What do you think about honing and installing some cast rings? At this point I would really like to pull the crank and have a crack at it.b I havent seen much info on doing this so im guessing there is a reason. Basic theory suggests that as long as the rings seat evenly it should have ok compression. Ill just crank the boost up a bit lol. Im more concerned with a round bore than the taper. Only the top 5% of the stroke is out so if I can lessen this with a moderate hone I would expect it to be fine.
I think new Round Rings in an oval Cylinder Bore are not a good combination.

It has been posted a bunch of times that the Manual can be viewed free on at Mercedes Startek. Stretch will direct you to the site.

The Fuel Injection Pump Timing Locking Pin I think is adequate for timing but it is not the same as Drip Timing.

I have done the Drip Timing but later when I removed the Fuel Injection Pump I used the Timing Pin and not checked with the drip method.

The main thing about the Timing Pin is that it would be reall hard to oops and rotate the Cam inside of the Fuel Injection Pump during installation.
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