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Originally Posted by leviegray
Wow Stretch Thanks for all the awesome information! So much I feel a bit on overload.... You really are a guru!
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I'm not a guru I'm just someone who wrote up a bit of stuff and took some photographs. There are many other people here who do this type of work as well.
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Originally Posted by leviegray
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I wondered if you think it is better to just remove the tranny or to take out the engine and tranny together. If you recommend just the tranny, I wonder if you can point me to a good set of instructions on how to properly do this- esp a very easy to understand explanation of how to deal with the torque converter separation. I don't quite understand what you mean when you say to slide it to the tranny side.
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My recommendation is to remove engine and transmission together especially if you do not have access to a 2 post or a 4 post lift (or even a fork lift!). I think it is a struggle to remove the transmission under a car up on jack stands - I think you are more likely to damage yourself or the transmission removing it that way.
Here's how I did the job on my w123 300D
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/289886-how-i-took-out-my-1981-w123-300d-euro-non-turbo-engine.html
Other people will probably disagree with this advice though - some people think it is too much work.
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Originally Posted by leviegray
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Also, do you have tricks for how to get the tranny clean before opening it up? Do you have a pressure washer or steam cleaner or just lots of solvent and elbow grease and rags. And about rags, I have heard that lint can be a problem- do you use something special. How do you plug or seal the fluid carrying connections? I have just been wrapping or plugging them with rags. Is this ok? I have also been worried about having a clean enough place to open it up and do the work. I was somewhat reassured when I saw Stretches photos of all the work on the deck but I am still worried about whether I can make a workspace that is clean enough and dust free enough.
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To clean the outside of the transmission I use engine degreaser and gentle amounts of water - I usually "go off on one" when people mention pressure washers (cos they cause more trouble than they are worth) so don't get me started...
In the Mercedes hand book they "go off on one" about special virgin goats sheep leather lint free cloths when wiping the dip stick. I reckon you need to be careful but not make your life harder than it needs to be...
You do need to have a clean space when you are putting these transmissions back together. If like me you are taking everything to bits and cleaning everything then working outside is OK when you are taking it to pieces. Certain jobs like the valve body ought to be done in a clean environment (kitchen table!)...
...when you put it back together you need to make sure that you are being as surgically clean as possible.
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Originally Posted by leviegray
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DOES ANYONE HAVE RECOMMENDATIONS ON GOOD SOURCES FOR GETTING THESE PARTS AFFORDABLY ( INCLUDING THE SHIPPING )AND RELATIVELY EXPEDIENTLY IN HAWAII ???
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You need to shop around
Quote:
Originally Posted by leviegray
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Are there significant considerations in terms of matching trannies and 617 engines? or are they pretty interchangeable?
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Yes get a 722.315 that suits your car and your engine. You can in principle fit other transmissions but you might come a cropper with the speedometer drive (722.303 for example has electronic speedo connection but was fitted to OM617) or shift points.
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Originally Posted by leviegray
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BTW How much would you think that just the parts would cost for a complete rebuild if I should ever venture into that dimension of reality?
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I reckon you could easily reach $1800 in parts if you are unlucky - reseal kit costs about $200 - brake bands can be as cheap as about $200 each, the clutch friction parts are cheap at about $5 a piece, but the stators are more expensive - a new governor is $$$$ - a brake drum is $$$$$$$$ new. I reckon the cheapest proper rebuild with new friction materials but lots of good luck => in other words nothing else is bust <= would be the best part of $1000 (small print: prices more or less correct at the time of posting - and what I say isn't gospel!)
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Originally Posted by leviegray
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And yes, the $1800 does include a torque converter and a two year warrantee.
Off to bed to most likely dream about trannies.... I hope they are shifting smoothly....
With Aloha
Levie
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Sounds like quite a good deal to me if you want a quick solution - if, however, you want to learn something you have a great opportunity right now - pull it to bits!