Originally Posted by Diesel911

Somewhere in Our DIY section you takes a 6 or so inch section of Heater Hose and put it between the Air Cleaner housing and the Intake Manifold I did that and it keeps the Housing from beating on the Intake Manifold.
I can't remember the ID Hose I used but I glued it to the Intake Manifold.

If you have some regular Open End or Combination Wrenches that you can thin the Heads to 1/4" thick on; you can use them to adjust the Valves. However, you need to remove the Fuel Injection Hard Lines or it is difficult to use the regular Wrenches.

If the Fuel Injection Hard Lines are removed when you re-install them don't tighten the Fuel Injection Hard Line Nuts at the Injectors. You need to crank the Engine till the Air is bled out before you Tighten those Nuts or you are going to have a hard time starting.
(If you are ever on the Road and run completely out of Fuel you need to know how to bleed the Air out as described otherwise you are going to Kill your Battery trying to get the Engine to start and it is also hard on the Starter.)

A Valve Adjustment and rebuilding the Injectors with New Nozzles took away the Bulk of Shaking on Mine.
After that it was chenging the Motor and Transmission Monts and a new Rack Dampner/Governor Idle Screw/Pin.

Phoenix=Lemförder/Lemfoerder/Lemforder= the same as the Mercedes Dealer Motor Mounts. All are made in Turkey. The Motor Mounts from the Mercedes Dealer are like $150+each.