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Old 10-01-2015, 11:58 AM
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Stretch Stretch is offline
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
For the sake of clarity...

...here's how you fit the cable.

Remove air filter

Unplug wire from air idle control valve



Plug in test wire on air idle control valve and connect wire on the car to the other end



You've then got two plugs to somehow fit to your multimeter / ammeter



For this there's another test wire (I guess) but because it can be pulled away from the car and away from harm I'm going to use some old fashioned 4mm banana plugs so I can secure some crocodile clips to the ends.



Everything is going to be taped up so I can't ground this connection with the chassis by accident.

Note:-

This cable is essentially disconnecting the existing wiring loom so that an ammeter can be connected in series

If you leave the test cable in place with out a connection to the ammeter / multimeter then the idle will be high => because the control valve is effectively disconnected. Connect the measuring instrument - make a reading - and the valve works (hopefully).
Attached Thumbnails
M102 / M103 CIS test cables-m102_910-fitting-air-idle-control-valve-test-cable1.jpg   M102 / M103 CIS test cables-m102_910-fitting-air-idle-control-valve-test-cable2.jpg   M102 / M103 CIS test cables-m102_910-fitting-air-idle-control-valve-test-cable3.jpg   M102 / M103 CIS test cables-m102_910-air-idle-control-valve-test-cable-4mm-plugs-fitted-crocodile-clips.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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