Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham
How did you set your meter? It sounds like you would have to move the one lead to the 10A socket if current is over 400mA. Then set the dial pointer to 10A. To read up to 10A, the meter likely has a shunt inside that will add a certain amount of resistance to the circuit but not much.
I ask because I have at least once, forgotten to move that lead and then blown fuse inside meter! Looking at your picture again, I think you may have the meter leads in wrong sockets. Black should be in center (COM) and red on left (10A). meter manual
I have a clamp meter that will read DC (not all will). Not sure it would be very good at low currents. Need to check range and accuracy. |
Thanks for the quick reply - I'm about to zip off and buy a clamp meter - may be I need to sleep on the idea before I end up spending more for little gain...
...the EX330 (my good) meter uses the leads in the position shown for currents up to 400mA
For 400mA to 10 Amps you need to swap the leads round as you said.
I tried both.
I had to fire up the engine with the multimeter disconnected to get the engine to start. Because the means the air idle control valve is disconnected the idle would run high (as it should to about 1500 rpm).
I then switched on the multimeter to the setting required.
I then connected the plugs so the air idle control valve worked - the engine bogged down and stalled 99 times out of a hundred!
Using a different cheaper multimeter I could get the engine to start with the multimeter connected but it always had to be in a range that was smaller then the range I needed for the measurement. Switching to the range I wanted made the engine bog down and the bugger stalled (or nearly stalled if didn't switch back quickly)